Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Bistro Central Parc's Food Is Good on Its Own Terms

Posted By on Wed, May 25, 2011 at 2:45 PM

Bistro Central Parc's bouillabaisse. - LARA HATA
  • Lara Hata
  • Bistro Central Parc's bouillabaisse.

I grew up in a family of inadvertent francophiles. How my father, a Mennonite kid from a tiny Michigan town, learned to speak French and travel around Europe before going to college is a very long story; somehow I've ended up with a thick Belgian accent (uh, not in English) and a sister who holds French citizenship. So the American love for French food, French interior design, and inappropriately used French words has always struck me as both understandable and a little silly.

It's also been several years since I've reviewed a purely French bistro like Bistro Central Parc, the subject of this week's print review, which has a French owner, French chef, French-speaking waitstaff, and menu of bistro classics. Without much hoo-ha, the place has quickly established itself in the neighborhood; on both my visits the restaurant was filled with regulars. For so many years, French cuisine was the ne plus ultra of American cooking, but as our own haute cuisine has taken off, we Americans are appreciating dishes like Bistro Central Parc's steak-frites, truite aux almandes, and bouillabaisse for what they have been all along: straightforwardly delicious fare that is good because it's tasty, not because it's "French."

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.
Follow me at @JonKauffman.

  • Pin It

About The Author

Jonathan Kauffman


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"