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Thursday, May 19, 2011

Zaré's Grill & Grain: Persian Wraps and Salads

Posted By on Thu, May 19, 2011 at 2:59 PM

The salmon wrap at Zare, $10. - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • The salmon wrap at Zare, $10.

Last month, Zaré at Fly Trap opened up for lunch, which chef-owner Hoss Zaré is calling "Zaré's Grill & Grain." As the chef described in a blog post on Inside Scoop, he was inspired by the food truck movement, as well as a recent heart attack. So he's now offering a menu of healthy, Persian and Mediterranean-style soups, salads, and wraps.

Though takeout is available, SFoodie has eaten lunch at Grill & Grain a couple of times now, usually placing an order at the counter, grabbing silverware and water glasses, and heading over to the communal tables to sit with a book. So far, our favorite dishes have been the ash reshteh ($7) ― a hearty soup of mixed beans, noodles, and kale, zapped with the electric tang of sun-dried yogurt ― and the grilled salmon wrap ($10), padded with greens and roasted radicchio, a herbaceous chermoula flickering around the edges of its flavor.


The flavors were layered so thickly in both a pulled-lamb wrap (with potatoes, roasted garlic, herbs, and

torshi, among other things, $10) and an orzo-squash salad (with barberries,

cauliflower, sage, harissa-spiced yogurt, etc., $8) that it was hard to catch hold of them ―

half the ingredients could have been edited out. Still, it's far more interesting stuff than we've found at the nearby salad-sandwich places.

Zare's Grill & Grain
, 606 Folsom (at Second St.), 243-0580. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.
 

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Follow me at @JonKauffman.



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