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Tuesday, March 29, 2011

No. 35: Morning Bun at Pinkie's Bakery

Posted By on Tue, Mar 29, 2011 at 3:56 PM

click to enlarge Morning bun ($3.50) from Pinkie's Bakery in SOMA. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Morning bun ($3.50) from Pinkie's Bakery in SOMA.

SFoodie's countdown of our 92 favorite things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

click to enlarge sf_92.jpg

One of San Francisco's best doughnuts has never seen the inside of a Fryolator. Okay, so the oven-baked morning bun at Pinkie's Bakery isn't a doughnut, though it offers all the comforts of one: an all-over sanding of cinnamon sugar that feels good against your lips, an interior texture of finely articulated air chambers. It compresses when you bite it, and springs back when you put it down to take a sip of coffee.

In fact, says Pinkie's owner Cheryl Burr, the morning bun is made from the house challah dough, with four discrete applications of butter: 1) kneaded into the challah itself; 2) spread on the rolled-out dough; 3) brushed atop the formed rolls; and 4) shellacked onto the just-baked buns, before the application of sugar. Somewhere, amidst all that buttering, lurks the true genius of Pinkie's morning rolls: a thin veneer of house-made apple butter, jelly-rolled into the spiral. Burr cooks down Granny Smiths for five hours with vanilla beans and sticks of cinnamon, then perfumes the resulting pomade with Meyer lemon zest. You'd probably never know it was there in the finished bun, that apple butter. It's more shadow than presence, a sweet-tart shading with the kind of subtlety that ― let's face it ― would be pretty much lost on the doughnut.

Pinkie's Bakery: 1196 Folsom (at Eighth St.), 556-4900

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño 91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu 90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha 89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar 88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline 87: Outerlands' levain bread 86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt 85: Gyro King's spinach pie 84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi 83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu 82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tarts 81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée 80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle 79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña 78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe 77: Cheesecake from Zanze's 76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel 75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra 74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch 73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup 72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk 71: Boudin noir at Cafe Bastille 70: Blackstrap molasses gingerbread at Lotta's Bakery 69: Plow's crispy potatoes 68: Prospect's Catcher in the Rye 67: Pork banh mi from Little Vietnam Cafe 66: Nakaochi at Ippuku 65: Sidekick's chocolate spritzer 64: Farmhouse Culture's horseradish-leek sauerkraut 63: Destination Baking Co.'s challah 62: Cotogna's roasted carrots 61: Hard Knox Cafe's chicken and waffles 60: The Rebel Within from Tell Tale Preserve Co. 59: The Slanted Door's Whiskey Cocktail 58: Carnitas burrito from Taqueria San Francisco 57: Sakura mochi from Benkyodo 56: Birria at Gallardos 55: BBQ pork skewers at Fil-Am Cuisine 54: JapaCurry's katsu curry 53: Vegan flan at Gracias Madre 52: Cinderella Bakery's pelmeni 51: Locavore's maple andouille sausage 50: Lumpia from Hapa SF 49: Moonlight Brewing's Reality Czeck 48: Filetti pizza at Una Pizza Napoletana 47: Pupusas revueltas at La Santaneca 46: Khoresht ghaymeh at Maykadeh 45: Los Muertos at Gitane 44: Sandwich cookies from Sweet Constructions 43: Nicasio Valley Cheese Company's square 42: Nopalito's quesadilla roja 41: Croissant from Sandbox Bakery 40: Cultured's burdock kasu-zuke pickles 39: Sticky chewy chocolate ice cream at Swensen's 38: Maverick's warm Brussels sprouts with slow-cooked egg 37: Roast chicken from Limón Rotisserie 36: Seven Hills' raviolo uovo

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com
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