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Thursday, March 24, 2011

No. 38: Maverick's Warm Brussels Sprouts with Slow-Cooked Egg

Posted By on Thu, Mar 24, 2011 at 3:45 PM

click to enlarge Maverick's wilted brussels sprouts, sous-vide egg, and ham hock seasoned with vadouvan, $12.50. - ALBERT LAW/PORKBELLYSTUDIO.COM
  • Albert Law/
  • Maverick's wilted brussels sprouts, sous-vide egg, and ham hock seasoned with vadouvan, $12.50.

SFoodie's countdown of our 92 favorite things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

click to enlarge sf_92.jpg

Maverick may be known for upscaled s'mores and fried chicken ― both worth the hype, incidentally ― but its new chef de cuisine, Matt Brimer, is looking at Americana anew with dishes like warm Brussels sprouts with an egg cooked sous-vide.

Brimer braises ham hocks until the meat can be parsed out into fine shreds, then takes the deeply porked-out liquid and infuses it with vadouvan, a seasoning mixture that combines Indian spices with caramelized onions and shallots. He sautés Brussels sprouts and oyster mushrooms with the shredded hock, then lays a wobbly, slow-cooked egg on top and crowns the plate with a froth made from the spiced stock.

And so you stir the egg onto the glossy green vegetables, coating them in its custard, and begin eating: The egg smooths over the mustard bite of the greens, exposing their sweetness ― a winter vegetable remade for spring. The flavor of the pork twines around that of the browned mushrooms, meat on meat, and here and there a nutty hit of toasted shallots or fenugreek appears. And while vadouvan and slow-poached eggs are pervasive memes in San Francisco right now, they make the salad here taste current, not clichéd. It's a Raymond Carver story retold in food, an intricate dish spelled out in plainspoken flavors.

Maverick: 3316 17th St. (at Mission), 863-3061.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño
91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu
90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha
89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar
88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline
87: Outerlands' levain bread
86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt
85: Gyro King's spinach pie
84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi
83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu
82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tarts
81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée
80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle
79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña
78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe
77: Cheesecake from Zanze's
76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel
75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra
74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch
73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup
72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk
71: Boudin noir at Cafe Bastille
70: Blackstrap molasses gingerbread at Lotta's Bakery
69: Plow's crispy potatoes
68: Prospect's Catcher in the Rye
67: Pork banh mi from Little Vietnam Cafe
66: Nakaochi at Ippuku
65: Sidekick's chocolate spritzer
64: Farmhouse Culture's horseradish-leek sauerkraut
63: Destination Baking Co.'s challah
62: Cotogna's roasted carrots
61: Hard Knox Cafe's chicken and waffles
60: The Rebel Within from Tell Tale Preserve Co.
59: The Slanted Door's Whiskey Cocktail
58: Carnitas burrito from Taqueria San Francisco
57: Sakura mochi from Benkyodo
56: Birria at Gallardos
55: BBQ pork skewers at Fil-Am Cuisine
54: JapaCurry's katsu curry
53: Vegan flan at Gracias Madre
52: Cinderella Bakery's pelmeni
51: Locavore's maple andouille sausage
50: Lumpia from Hapa SF
49: Moonlight Brewing's Reality Czeck
48: Filetti pizza at Una Pizza Napoletana
47: Pupusas revueltas at La Santaneca
46: Khoresht ghaymeh at Maykadeh
45: Los Muertos at Gitane
44: Sandwich cookies from Sweet Constructions
43: Nicasio Valley Cheese Company's square
42: Nopalito's quesadilla roja
41: Croissant from Sandbox Bakery
40: Cultured's burdock kasu-zuke pickles
39: Sticky chewy chocolate ice cream at Swensen's

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