Maykadeh, which has been in North Beach for almost three decades, has the four essential markers you look for when searching for a place to take Midwestern relatives: 1. White tablecloths. 2. Polite servers. 3. Clean bathrooms. 4. The option of ordering steak.
Kebabs and steaks bulk out the menu, but Maykadeh's strength is its braised lamb dishes ― lamb feet in cinnamon-turmeric broth, for instance, or ghorme sabzee, a whole shank smothered in onions and herbs. The best of the lamb dishes may be the khoresht ghaymeh, braised lamb and split peas, garnished with crispy potatoes and served with a blizzard-sized drift of rice on the side.
As the lamb grows tender on the braise, the split peas melt together with tomatoes and aromatics, thickening the stew and giving it enormous body. Countering the brawn, saffron's papery perfume flutters about its edges, and every second bite, the scent of dried Persian limes darts in and out, leaving the impression of ripe citrus fruit kept in an incense jar. Don't be peevish: Let the steak eaters have a bite.
Maykadeh: 470 Green (at Grant), 362-8286.
92: Goat tacos from El Norteño
91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu
90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha
89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar
88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline
87: Outerlands' levain bread
86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt
85: Gyro King's spinach pie
84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi
83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu
82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tarts
81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée
80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle
79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña
78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe
77: Cheesecake from Zanze's
76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel
75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra
74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch
73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup
72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk
71: Boudin noir at Cafe Bastille
70: Blackstrap molasses gingerbread at Lotta's Bakery
69: Plow's crispy potatoes
68: Prospect's Catcher in the Rye
67: Pork banh mi from Little Vietnam Cafe
66: Nakaochi at Ippuku
65: Sidekick's chocolate spritzer
64: Farmhouse Culture's horseradish-leek sauerkraut
63: Destination Baking Co.'s challah
62: Cotogna's roasted carrots
61: Hard Knox Cafe's chicken and waffles
60: The Rebel Within from Tell Tale Preserve Co.
59: The Slanted Door's Whiskey Cocktail
58: Carnitas burrito from Taqueria San Francisco
57: Sakura mochi from Benkyodo
56: Birria at Gallardos
55: BBQ pork skewers at Fil-Am Cuisine
54: JapaCurry's katsu curry
53: Vegan flan at Gracias Madre
52: Cinderella Bakery's pelmeni
51: Locavore's maple andouille sausage
50: Lumpia from Hapa SF
49: Moonlight Brewing's Reality Czeck
48: Filetti pizza at Una Pizza Napoletana
47: Pupusas revueltas at La Santaneca
