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Monday, March 14, 2011

No. 46: Khoresht Ghaymeh at Maykadeh

Posted By on Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 6:01 PM

click to enlarge Khoresht ghaymeh, a braised lamb and split pea stew at Maykadeh, $16.95. - GIL RIEGO JR.
  • Gil Riego Jr.
  • Khoresht ghaymeh, a braised lamb and split pea stew at Maykadeh, $16.95.

Maykadeh, which has been in North Beach for almost three decades, has the four essential markers you look for when searching for a place to take Midwestern relatives: 1. White tablecloths. 2. Polite servers. 3. Clean bathrooms. 4. The option of ordering steak.

Kebabs and steaks bulk out the menu, but Maykadeh's strength is its braised lamb dishes ― lamb feet in cinnamon-turmeric broth, for instance, or ghorme sabzee, a whole shank smothered in onions and herbs. The best of the lamb dishes may be the khoresht ghaymeh, braised lamb and split peas, garnished with crispy potatoes and served with a blizzard-sized drift of rice on the side.

click to enlarge Fluffy, fluffy. - GIL RIEGO JR.
  • Gil Riego Jr.
  • Fluffy, fluffy.

As the lamb grows tender on the braise, the split peas melt together with tomatoes and aromatics, thickening the stew and giving it enormous body. Countering the brawn, saffron's papery perfume flutters about its edges, and every second bite, the scent of dried Persian limes darts in and out, leaving the impression of ripe citrus fruit kept in an incense jar. Don't be peevish: Let the steak eaters have a bite.

: 470 Green (at Grant), 362-8286.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño

91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu

90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha

89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar

88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline

87: Outerlands' levain bread

86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt

85: Gyro King's spinach pie

84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi

83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu

82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tarts

81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée

80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle

79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña

78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe

77: Cheesecake from Zanze's

76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel

75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra

74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch

73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup

72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk

71: Boudin noir at Cafe Bastille

70: Blackstrap molasses gingerbread at Lotta's Bakery

69: Plow's crispy potatoes

68: Prospect's Catcher in the Rye

67: Pork banh mi from Little Vietnam Cafe

66: Nakaochi at Ippuku

65: Sidekick's chocolate spritzer

64: Farmhouse Culture's horseradish-leek sauerkraut

63: Destination Baking Co.'s challah

62: Cotogna's roasted carrots

61: Hard Knox Cafe's chicken and waffles

60: The Rebel Within from Tell Tale Preserve Co.

59: The Slanted Door's Whiskey Cocktail

58: Carnitas burrito from Taqueria San Francisco

57: Sakura mochi from Benkyodo

56: Birria at Gallardos

55: BBQ pork skewers at Fil-Am Cuisine

54: JapaCurry's katsu curry

53: Vegan flan at Gracias Madre

52: Cinderella Bakery's pelmeni

51: Locavore's maple andouille sausage

50: Lumpia from Hapa SF

49: Moonlight Brewing's Reality Czeck

48: Filetti pizza at Una Pizza Napoletana

47: Pupusas revueltas at La Santaneca

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Follow me at @JonKauffman.

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