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Wednesday, February 16, 2011

No. 65: Sidekick's Chocolate Spritzer

Posted By on Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 5:27 PM

click to enlarge Sidekick's Recchiuti-based chocolate spritzer, $2.75. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Sidekick's Recchiuti-based chocolate spritzer, $2.75.

SFoodie's countdown of the 92 best things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

click to enlarge sf_92.jpg

You could argue that Sidekick was conceived in Paris, a city with a healthy respect for the pure products of pleasure and the people who make them. That might explain why the owners, Cowgirl Creamery's Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, felt they didn't need to reinvent everything for their milk bar in the Ferry Building. Take the chocolate spritzer, a made-to-order chocolate soda. Instead of concocting their own chocolate base, Sidekick's milk baristas ladle a plug of Extra-Bitter Chocolate Sauce from Marketplace neighbor Recchiuti into the fountain cup, then dilute with a thread of simple syrup and fizzy water from the carbonating machine. A husky, cacao-bean flavor fills your mouth, but though your synapses brace, nanoseconds later, to register the heaviness of cocoa butter, it never hits. What you feel instead is the needle-prick of bubbles, the seafoam texture of the pale-colored scurf on top, and chocolate freed of weight and richness, thrilling as a Fudgsicle redesigned by minimalists.

Sidekick: 1 Ferry Building #19 (at Embarcadero), 392-4000.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño

91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu

90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha

89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar

88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline

87: Outerlands' levain bread

86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt

85: Gyro King's spinach pie

84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi

83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu

82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tart

81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée

80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle

79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña

78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe

77: Cheesecake from Zanze's

76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel

75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra

74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch

73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup

72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk

71: Boudin noir at Cafe Bastille

70: Blackstrap molasses gingerbread at Lotta's Bakery

69: Plow's crispy potatoes

68: Prospect's Catcher in the Rye

67: Pork banh mi from Little Vietnam Cafe

66: Nakaochi at Ippuku

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