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Friday, January 21, 2011

Sushi + Burrito = Sushirrito (and Crazy-Long Lines)

Posted By on Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 11:41 AM

click to enlarge Sushirrito's Three Amigos, $10.50: Tuna, salmon, and hamachi with avocado and yuzu tobiko, served with rice chips. - LOU BUSTAMANTE
  • Lou Bustamante
  • Sushirrito's Three Amigos, $10.50: Tuna, salmon, and hamachi with avocado and yuzu tobiko, served with rice chips.

First things first: If something isn't wrapped in or contained by a tortilla or grain-based flatbread of some kind, you really shouldn't call it a taco or a burrito. Namu, love those ssam things you call "tacos," but nori just isn't the same thing as a tortilla. And Sushirrito, you can't make something called a "burrito" with nori either. Sorry, but that's like calling the raisins in an oatmeal cookie "chocolate chips." (Points to Spice Kit for naming its burrito-like object the "ssam wrap.")

click to enlarge The Three Amigos in cross-section. - LOU BUSTAMANTE
  • Lou Bustamante
  • The Three Amigos in cross-section.

With that out of the way, allow us to describe Sushirrito, the New Montgomery lunch spot that's been drawing such crowds in its first few days of business that SFoodie waited a full 50 minutes to order food yesterday. You know you're waiting in a long line when the people behind you have had time to walk around the corner to the JapaCurry truck and finish one meal before they even get a chance to order the next. So is it worth waiting in line that long for what Sushirrito is offering? In a word, no, not with the Sentinel and other nearby options. Clearly, Sushirrito seems as surprised as anybody by its reception, judging by the stunned looks yesterday on the faces of its friendly (and apologetic) employees.

Does the food work? Yes, the ingredients are fresh/organic/local and the combinations are the most part good, even though the rolls are very "sushi" and not very "burrito." They're deceitfully substantial, with a heft that belies their slim profiles. The rice chips that come with them are tasty, if not necessarily complimentary to the whole Sushirrito experience, and as much as we hate to admit it, we longed for something like the spicy tang of pickled ginger on the side.

Still, for a 3-day-old place, Sushirrito makes a sold showing. And if there ever happens to be a reasonable line here, a worthwhile lunch option.

Sushirrito: 59 New Montgomery (at Jessie), 495-7655. Open 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

Lou Bustamante tweets at @thevillagedrunk. Follow SFoodie at @sfoodie.

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