Talking to Dennis Lee about his oxtail dish, I took the opportunity to ask him about the new ramyun dish he debuted at Namu's Saturday farmers' market stand last week.
"I basically spend all Friday making the noodles," he says. "We're mimicking Korean instant ramen. The noodles are rolled out and cut, then parboiled and fried to get the same texture as that block of dried noodles." The stock is distinctive, too. Lee starts with a broth made with pike mackerel ― which he dries himself ― as well as pork and chicken, then rolls in a little heat and black pepper.
Is the ramyun going on the restaurant's permanent menu? Perhaps. "I'm considering switching the restaurant ramen to ramyun," Lee says. "It's a little more special."
Namu stand, Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market, Sat., Jan. 22, 8 a.m.-2 p.m.
SFoodie's countdown of the 92 best things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.
Four Roses Master Distiller Jim Rutledge
Where: The Boothby Center for the Beverage Arts, 1161 Mission (at Eighth St.), Ste. 120
When: Thu., Jan. 27, 6-8 p.m.
Cost: $35
The rundown: Jim Rutledge, a 40-year veteran in the bourbon business ― the past 16 as master distiller at Four Roses ― is coming to the Boothby Center for a talk and a tasting (Four Roses Yellow Label, Limited Edition, Small Batch, and a cocktail). Four Roses has a production method distinct from other bourbons. While most brands have a single recipe, Four Roses has 10, each fermented, distilled, and aged separately in a single-story rack house. The combination of a high rye ratio (25-35 percent, a mash bill that result in spiced notes and all-around complexity) and five distinct yeast strains creates a palette from which Rutledge can blend for various bottlings. This is a great opportunity to learn about the bourbon production process and taste the effect of different yeasts on a distilled spirit.
Tickets: Online through Eventbrite
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Once an annual pre-Burning Man stop for cheap vodka, Cabernet, and Trek Mix, Trader Joe's is now a weekly essential ― seriously, who can survive without Mandarin orange chicken, chocolate-covered espresso beans, or processed enchiladas? But guess what: While you're intent on stocking up, you're pissing off every other shopper in the store. Here's why:
You don't know how to drive and/or park.
Every Trader Joe's parking lot everywhere is an effed-up jungle from hell. If you don't know how to properly wield your Subaru into a space the size of a kiddy pool, just walk. And once you're done shopping, throw your groceries in the car and drive. Don't sit there and phone your psychic or listen to the end of Fresh Air. It's rude.
You have no clue where to properly place your cart when getting items.
If you weren't such a fucking idiot, you would leave your cart at the front of the store by the flowers. Who buys orchids at Trader Joe's? The person you just dumped if you have any self-respect is the correct answer. Everyone knows their plants die around the same time your Fair Trade University bananas go bad, i.e., 10 minutes from now.
Careers in Chocolate
Where: San Francisco Art Institute's Studio 18, 800 Chestnut (at Jones)
When: Sun., Jan. 23, 4-5:30 p.m
Cost: Free, but an RSVP is required; e-mail david@bittersweetcafe.com
The rundown: Oakland's Bittersweet Cafe is organizing the coolest college career day maybe ever. Penelope Finnie, who runs the cacao-centric spot, will be joined by cookbook author Alice Medrich, Poco Dolce's Kathy Wiley, Guittard's senior scientist Thalia Hohenthal, and TCHO chocolate maker Zohara Mapes in discussing the many career possibilities in the growing chocolate industry. This information should prove especially useful in the Bay Area, which has truly evolved into ground zero of American independent chocolate thought.
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@sfoodie.Less than three weeks into 2011, and San Francisco's street food scene is as warm as January in California. Much of it is percolating through Off the Grid: McCoppin ― like Saturday's debut of the Brass Knuckle truck.
Brass Knuckle owner Shellie (she prefers not to use her last name) had an 8-year career cooking in starred brick and mortars (Bacar, Bambuddha Lounge, Cortez). She left in part to become a mom (the oldest is 3 ½), then launched a truck to return to cooking on her own terms. The name? "I'm a metal-slash-punk head," Shellie tells SFoodie. "I just thought all the trucks out there were just so ― uh ― safe. I wanted to come up with something that sounded street, tough. Basically it's urban street food."
Shellie's just cleared the tortuous permitting process ― she plans to sell three, maybe four sandwiches Saturday at McCoppin, plus a Twitter-only secret menu (follow at @Brassknucklesf ― Shellie calls her fans "Knuckleheads"), and a couple deep-fried items (looks like lumpia may be involved). She'll bring her signature Notoriuos P.I.G. (sounds like a variation on the Cuban, but on a rosemary waffle pressed till crisp), the Lamb Halen (with halloumi cheese and harissa on ciabatta), and the Elvis Pressedly (peanut butter and jelly with bacon, jalapeño, and caramelized banana on brioche). Full menu here, though only the items we mentioned are likely to be on offer this week.
Microfarming for Winter Health
Where: BioFuel Oasis, 1526 Fairview (at Sacramento), Berkeley, 510-665-5509
When: Sun., Jan. 23, 10 a.m.-1 p.m.
Cost: $30
The rundown: There's a small seasonal window in Northern California when there isn't much you can do with your outdoor garden. Welcome to those 15 minutes. On the upside, this Sunday you can take a workshop in Berkeley on how to turn your winter kitchen into a cauldron of life. At a class co-taught by do-it-yourself apostle Vanessa Barrington , you'll learn how to refine the tiny art of sprouting, as well as gaining mastery over live dairy cultures (crème fraîche, anyone?) As a bonus, she'll teach you how to make your own sourdough starter, one of the nine basic steps towards gaining your DIY black belt.
Register at the BioFuel Oasis site.
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They started last night's very exciting "Restaurant Wars" episode by stating that there were only three female cheftestants left. Then they brought out the hot boys. For the Quickfire we had Bourdain at Le Bernardin introducing the Top Chef hopefuls to Justo Thomas, the seafood master, who fillets 700-1,000 pounds of seafood a night. Justo is a god with a knife and a fish, and for the challenge the contestants had to fillet and portion a cod and a fluke in 10 minutes. No biggie, Justo can do it in just 8 minutes.
The girls were on the bottom with Fabio and Angelo, and the top four guys (Richard, Marcel, Tre, and Dale) had the challenge continue when they had to make a dish with the leftover fish carcasses. During the challenge continuation, Richard told the most awesome story about working at McDonald's and making the Filet-O-Fish avant-garde by leaving off the top bun.
Dale took the challenge and immunity with his impressive two dishes: fluke back-fin sashimi with cucumber and fluke liver sauce, and then a bacon dashi with salt-roasted cod collar.
The parade of hotties continued with guest judge Ludo. (Full disclosure: I am one of Ludo's Bitches.) In case you didn't know, Ludo is the king of pop-ups (no, I'm not talking about my girl boner for him), so it was only fitting that he was there for the infamous "Restaurant Wars."
Starting today and continuing every Thursday, Street Food 2 U will set up shop at Mercury Lounge, offering a lineup of street food vendors with a lunch menu for sit-down service or to-go orders. Highlights of today's menu include green curry and spicy pork tacos from Magic Curry Kart, Cuban black bean soup and bacon crack from Nosh This, and apple-pear tartlets from Sweet Constructions. Delivery to Civic Center and SOMA areas is available with a $35 minimum; call the number below to order between 11 a.m. and noon. Otherwise, food will be available for pickup or eating in between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.
Mercury Lounge: 1582 Folsom (at 12th St.), 551-1582.
SFoodie spotted this (misspelled) sign for upcoming Honduran restaurant, Los Catrachos, in the space formerly occupied by Salvadoran place Costa del Sol, at 4423 Mission (at Avalon). The interior is under construction, so it'll likely be a while before Los Catrachos opens.
"Catracho" ("catracha" for a female) is the slang term for Hondurans. The word originated in the 1850s, derived from "Xatruches," nickname for the victorious Honduran troops under the command of General Florencio Xatruch. Nowadays it's attached to more peaceful pursuits, like Honduran music, as in punta catracha, the Garifuna booty-shaking music. (Warning: Lower your computer volume before playing the YouTube video!)
Although Central American cuisines share a culinary heritage due to proximity, each country's food is distinct enough. That's not always easy to see at Central American eateries in San Francisco, since restaurants tend to adjust their menus to fit a wider clientele.
