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Tuesday, January 18, 2011

No. 85: Spinach Pie at Gyro King

Posted By on Tue, Jan 18, 2011 at 4:27 PM

Gyros? Order Gyro King's spinach or feta pies ($3.75) instead. - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • Gyros? Order Gyro King's spinach or feta pies ($3.75) instead.

SFoodie's countdown of the 92 best things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.
click to enlarge sf_92.jpg

Gyro King, the tiny Turkish restaurant across the street from the Main Library, certainly does a brisk business in gyro-like wraps, though we're more likely to forgo the spit-roasted meats in favor of the adana kabobs, which are grilled to order.

If it were up to us, though, the restaurant would be renamed Pie King. Displayed in plastic cases along the counter are freshly baked pide, or pies, which the cooks will reheat to order. The chicken and gyro pies can be dry; not so the feta pie, a foot-long oval of dough folded around chopped feta and red peppers, or the spinach pie pictured above.

A spiral of golden dough ― its surface glossy from a brush of olive oil ― can barely contain its dark-green spinach filling, which erupts out wherever the dough is rolled thin. The greens are sauteed with onions, garlic, and enough olive oil to turn the leaves silky, then brightened up with a squeeze of lime. Many a trip to the library has ended with SFoodie walking across Civic Center, peeling the paper wrapper away from the warm, rich pie in order to eat it like a banana. 

Gyro King: 25 Grove (at Hyde), 621-8313.

Dishes in our series so far:
92: Goat tacos from El Norteño
91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu
90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha
89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar
88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline
87: Outerlands' levain bread
86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Follow me at @jonkauffman.
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