Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Thursday, January 13, 2011

No. 88: Decantr's Chicken Liver Mousseline

Posted By on Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 6:44 PM

Decantr's chicken mousseline with quince butter, $12. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Decantr's chicken mousseline with quince butter, $12.

SFoodie's countdown of the 92 best things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

click to enlarge sf_92.jpg

Decantr, Saison's casual little sister up front at Stable Café, has what pretty much every wine bar SFoodie's every sipped a Syrah in has wished for: a chef with real talent overseeing the small plates. Mina protégé Joshua Skenes is capable of knitting a cook's mise-en-place collection of ingredients into a complex dish, but at Decantr he keeps it simple. Skenes' chicken liver mousseline ($12), served in a glass canning jar ― next to toast, pickled onions, and a dab of quince butter stiff as hair pomade ― captures the somberness and blood-tinged delicacy of the livers in a field of pure texture. It's as lithe as chocolate ganache and as rich as foie, the kind of thing you catch yourself licking off the knife once the jar's been swabbed clean.

Decantr: 2128 Folsom (at 17th St.), 552-1199.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño

91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu

90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha

89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

  • Pin It

Tags: , , , , , ,

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"