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Thursday, January 13, 2011

No. 88: Decantr's Chicken Liver Mousseline

Posted By on Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 6:44 PM

Decantr's chicken mousseline with quince butter, $12. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Decantr's chicken mousseline with quince butter, $12.

SFoodie's countdown of the 92 best things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

click to enlarge sf_92.jpg

Decantr, Saison's casual little sister up front at Stable Café, has what pretty much every wine bar SFoodie's every sipped a Syrah in has wished for: a chef with real talent overseeing the small plates. Mina protégé Joshua Skenes is capable of knitting a cook's mise-en-place collection of ingredients into a complex dish, but at Decantr he keeps it simple. Skenes' chicken liver mousseline ($12), served in a glass canning jar ― next to toast, pickled onions, and a dab of quince butter stiff as hair pomade ― captures the somberness and blood-tinged delicacy of the livers in a field of pure texture. It's as lithe as chocolate ganache and as rich as foie, the kind of thing you catch yourself licking off the knife once the jar's been swabbed clean.

Decantr: 2128 Folsom (at 17th St.), 552-1199.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño

91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu

90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha

89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at

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