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Wednesday, January 12, 2011

No 89: Poco Dolce's Olive Oil Chocolate Bar

Posted By on Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 4:19 PM

click to enlarge Poco Dolce's olive oil sea salt bar ($6) is luxuriously smooth. - KEVIN HENDERSON/SFOODIE
  • Kevin Henderson/SFoodie
  • Poco Dolce's olive oil sea salt bar ($6) is luxuriously smooth.

SFoodie's countdown of the 92 best things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

click to enlarge sf_92.jpg

By now we're used to chocolate's Heart of Darkness narrative ― that it has to move ever deeper up-jungle, into some terra incognita of earthier, bitterer, single-estatier. Dogpatch maker Poco Dolce isn't afraid to move instead into the flavored realms of old-school chocolatiers like Lindt, but in a way that eschews overt sweetness and opts for modern flavors like Chinese five spice, chile, and SFoodie's favorite, olive oil.

Late last year Poco Dolce (Italian lesson: "only a little sweet") soft-launched a line of bars ― they're just now landing on the shelves at places like Chocolate Covered, Blue Fog Market, and Bi-Rite. The olive oil sea salt bar folds flowery-nosed California extra-virgin oil into a 62-percent Guittard blend, spiked with sea-marsh salt from Brittany. As anyone can tell you who's ever loved on Bi-Rite Creamery's Sam's sundae, chocolate has an uncanny affinity for buttery-tasting olive oil, but it's the creaminess the oil works on the chocolate that makes this extraordinary. Better than that, it makes chocolate likable.

Poco Dolce's Olive Oil Sea Salt Bar: Available now at Chocolate Covered, Blue Fog Market, and Say Cheese on Cole; available soon at Bi-Rite Market and Village Market.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño

91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu

90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

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