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Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Locavore's $7 House-Made Sausages

Posted By on Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 1:46 PM

click to enlarge Locavore's maple andouille sausage with honey Treviso, $7. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Locavore's maple andouille sausage with honey Treviso, $7.

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Jason Moniz was the opening chef at Oakland's Flora in late 2007, back when Michael Bauer liked the place. Last fall, Moniz and his business partner, Mario Duarte, opened Locavore, in a deep, dark space on the Mission Street slope of Bernal Heights, across from Blue Plate. For lunch, Moniz makes and grills five kinds of sausages ― really good sausages, out of pork he sources from Riverdog Farm in Guinda ― slips them into buns custom-made at Sandbox, and sells them for an amazingly cheap $7 each. Last week we had Moniz's spicy Italian sausage (pebbly-textured and chewy) half-buried under a ruffle of roasted fennel slices mixed with bits of preserved lemon. Today it was a fat maple andouille, lightly smoky, topped with shredded Treviso chicory, its bitterness balanced with honey. The andouille's tight, crisp skin was black from the grill; the fine-textured meat within oozed juice. Perfect.

click to enlarge The $6 grass-fed burger at Locavore. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • The $6 grass-fed burger at Locavore.

Moniz serves the sausages with house-made pickles ― beets and romanesco broccoli, or papery slices of butternut squash. We haven't hit up Locavore for dinner yet, or eaten much beyond Moniz's sausages or burger, ground on site from Marin Sun Farms grass-fed beef, served on a toasted Sandbox bun. The price? For the basic lunch burger, $6. No cheese, bacon, or barbecue-sauce-doused onion rings necessary.

Locavore: 3215 Mission (at Fair), 821-1918. Sausages available at lunch, Tue.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.

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