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Wednesday, December 8, 2010

This Week's Review: Haltun Mayan Cuisine

Posted By on Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 4:17 PM

Haltun's antojito sampler. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Haltun's antojito sampler.

This week, I visited Haltun Mayan Cuisine, a seven-month-old restaurant in the the depths of the Mission that has one of the most ambitious Yucatecan menus in town. Its chef, Jesus Peralta, opened the restaurant just as his previous employer, the city's first prominent Yucatecan restaurant, was folding.

Even as I was enjoying Peralta's tamal colado, his papadzules and dzoto-bi-chay, I wondered for the hundredth time why Mayan food is so low-profile here. Nowhere else in the country can we find such a concentration of Yucatecan restaurants, which date back to the opening of Tommy's in 1965. During my time living in Seattle, I made a point of going back to Mi Lindo Yucatan for cochinita pibil when I visited San Francisco, and I was distraught when the restaurant closed. Luckily, Haltun's version is even better.

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Jonathan Kauffman


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