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Monday, November 29, 2010

Plow's Pumpkin Pancakes

Posted By on Mon, Nov 29, 2010 at 7:30 AM

click to enlarge Pumpkin pancakes at Plow, $9. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Pumpkin pancakes at Plow, $9.
Monday, November 29, 2010

Canned puree is the blood pulsing through the pumpkin spice cookie, sticky tea loaf, and clammy pancake, staining all a muddy orange we think of, simply, as pumpkin. And the taste? Well, nobody should pretend they can actually taste Cucurbita pepo through all that cinnamon, allspice, and ginger.

Plow's Maxine Siu takes a different approach with her pumpkin pancakes ($9). Instead of reaching for the can opener, Siu roasts sugar pie pumpkins - halved, seeded, and smeared with olive oil - till they've softened, then scoops out the meat. The result is pancakes threaded with bits of marigold-yellow flesh, unspiced, and with a very subtle vegetable sweetness. They taste, well, real. Make them sweet as cake, if you want to, with maple syrup. Me, I'm content to eat my squash.

Plow: 1299 18th St. (at Texas), 821-7569.

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