The cocktail menu at Beretta is quietly confident, even when the restaurant itself is not exactly keeping the noise down. The Lonsdale blends gin with apple juice, a dash of lemon, and barely detectable honey, with a generous basil streak. The delicate glass implies sophistication but the taste is a sweet reminder of alcohol-spiked youth. Turn the music up. And order a second.
Beretta: Valencia (at 23rd St.), 695-1199.
