Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Savory Pumpkin Pastries from Tell Tale Preserve Co.

Posted By on Wed, Nov 17, 2010 at 8:00 AM

click to enlarge Tell Tale's pumpkin-leek pop tart with sage, $3.50. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Tell Tale's pumpkin-leek pop tart with sage, $3.50.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

click to enlarge Savory cake with marina di chioggia pumpkin and Castelvetrano olives, $3.50. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Savory cake with marina di chioggia pumpkin and Castelvetrano olives, $3.50.

Savory pastries tend to languish in gougère limbo, but Tell Tale Preserve Co.'s William Werner is thinking outside the pâte à choux. Werner's finds himself in his own limbo at the moment ― his future brick-and-mortar shop at 33 Maiden Lane is stalled in the usual pre-buildout holdup ― but that hasn't stopped the Quince pastry refugee from ringing up sales. He's got his own cases at Coffee Bar and Sightglass, and yesterday was his second weekly appearance at the Ferry Plaza Tuesday market.

Werner's Valrhona Tainori brownie with a seductively squidgy filling of salted butter caramel is the kind of thing that gets my mom to deploy the phrase "to die for," but it's the savory side where Werner kills. Jonathan Kauffman previously glossed his fingers on Tell Tale's cheese and ham pound cake (the version at Ferry Plaza swapped out chorizo and scallions). Yesterday Werner offered a muffin-sized version of his savory cake, tinted vivid aniline yellow with a purée of marina di chioggia pumpkin grown at La Tercera Farm in Bolinas, shot through with an astonishing quantity of green Castelvetrano olives. The taste: Complex pumpkin sweetness dotted with bright olive acidity.

click to enlarge Tell Tale's case at the Ferry Plaza Tuesday market. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Tell Tale's case at the Ferry Plaza Tuesday market.

A more concentrated sweetness lay at the heart of Werner's savory pop tart, filled with a mash of sugar pie pumpkin (also from La Tercera) and melted leeks, with enough sage to channel Thanksgiving. It was in a pâte brisée jacket, flaky at the edges, less so on top, where a cap of pepita-studded Asiago held sway. Pretty much to die for.

Tell Tale Preserve Co.: Ferry Plaza Tuesday Farmers' Market, Tue. 8:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Also at Coffee Bar, 1890 Bryant (at Mariposa) and Sightglass Coffee, 270 Seventh St. (at Folsom).

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

  • Pin It

Tags: , , , , ,

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"