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Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Mission Chinese Food's Pork Dumplings with Ham Broth

Posted By on Wed, Oct 20, 2010 at 7:45 AM

Pork dumplings with country ham broth, $6. - ALEX HOCHMAN
  • Alex Hochman
  • Pork dumplings with country ham broth, $6.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

click to enlarge Danny Bowien at MCF's new dumpling station. - ALEX HOCHMAN
  • Alex Hochman
  • Danny Bowien at MCF's new dumpling station.

Anthony Myint and Danny Bowien are at it again: The inspired and restless operators of Mission Chinese Food have constructed an ad-hoc dumpling station in the front window of Lung Shan.

We experienced culinary déjà vu after our first few bites of Bowien's pork dumplings (six for $6), feeling for a moment like we were in Richmond, Va. Turns out he bathed the dumplings in a broth made from Benton's ham ― it tasted almost exactly like a sandwich we ate last summer at the venerable Sally Bell's Kitchen. When the ham flavor subsided, a bolt of ginger kicked in till the next bite reset the flavor mechanism. We polished off all six in less than three minutes, then picked up the bowl and slurped the broth with all the grace of Spalding pounding leftover drinks in Caddyshack.

Lamb dumplings (six for $7) were rich and salty, gamy from their filling of lamb shoulder, minced braised peanuts, and lamb sweetbreads ― that's right, sweetbreads. Following the dumplings' initial liquid burst, the peanuts gave up a slightly crunchy bite.

Bowien told us he's planning on rotating the fillings and hopes to offer fish dumplings in coming weeks. What's next, immersion circulators for sous-vide cooking? Why yes, actually. We observed Myint installing them during our visit.

Mission Chinese Food: 2234 Mission (at 18th St.), 863-2800.

Read more from Alex Hochman at Urban Stomach.
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