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Jonathan Kauffman
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El Norteno tacos, clockwise from top left: goat, al pastor, chicken, tongue.
It was Eat Real that shamed us: So much food served up from trucks, so little of it, Jonathan Kauffman and I realized, from mobile vendors who toughed the sometimes mean streets of San Francisco long before truck food trended French, or Filipino, or TyFlo. In the weeks since, we've concentrated on grazing the city's traditional loncheras. Here, in descending order of deliciousness, are six of the city's most prominent.
1. El Norteño: Bryant at Harriet (between Sixth and Seventh Streets).
What to get: Goat and tongue tacos, $1.50 each.
Grade: A
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John Birdsall
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Carnitas tacos from El Gallo Giro.
2.
El Gallo Giro: Corner of Treat and 23rd Streets.
What to get: Carnitas tacos, $1.50 each.
Grade: A
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Jonathan Kauffman
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Four-taco San Buena plate, clockwise from top left: Al pastor, pollo, carnitas, cabeza.
3.
Tacos San Buena: 375 Pacific (at Sansome).
What to get: Tacos al pastor, $2 each.
Grade: B
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John Birdsall
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El Tonayense cabeza (left) and tripitas taco.
4.
El Tonayense: Three locations on Harrison (the ones pictured here are from the truck at Harrison and 19th Streets).
What to get: Buche and tripitas tacos, $1.75 each.
Grade: C
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Jonathan Kauffman
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Los Compadres trio, clockwise from top: Al pastor, lengua, and carne asada.
5.
Los Compadres: Parking lot at the corner of Folsom and Spear Streets.
What to get: Carne asada tacos, three for $5.
Grade: C-
click to enlarge
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John Birdsall
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Gaby and Liz tacos, from left: Carnitas, chicken, and carne asada.
6.
Gaby and Liz: Corner of Mariposa and Carolina Streets.
What to get: Chicken tacos, $1.75 each.
Grade: C-
