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Friday, October 8, 2010

Chicken Tacos from Gaby and Liz

Posted By on Fri, Oct 8, 2010 at 7:51 AM

click to enlarge From left, carnitas, chicken, and carne asada tacos, $1.75 each. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • From left, carnitas, chicken, and carne asada tacos, $1.75 each.
Friday, October 8, 2010

click to enlarge JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
SFoodie's roundup of O.G. trucks ends at the southeast corner of Jackson Park, with the whirr of the Acme brewery in your ears, and at 2:30 p.m. on a Thursday, kids from Daniel Webster school filtering down the hill for chicken tacos or hairspray can-size drinks from Gaby and Liz.

This is hardly the truck to stoke a cult following ― no Eat Real or Off the Grid appearances is likely for this truck, source of hot-dog-heavy monster tortas and burritos calibrated to satisfy the appetites of working guys in Dickies coveralls. The tacos, too, are more about face cramming than anything resembling finesse, even by truck standards.

The carne asada? Don't go there, unless you're a fan of tough, frizzled meat bits, hardened on a flattop glazed with enough oil to deep fry. Chicken is best: the onion-and-chipotle tweaked tinga, or the plain version, soft fibers, boiled, that taste vaguely like Mexican oregano. The stunningly homey carnitas are a sort of novelty: pale clumps of boiled pork leg radiating delicate animal funk. Onion and cilantro are at a minimum, but the acutely tangy tomatillo sauce, textured like Bolognese, hides a multitude of flaws.

Gaby and Liz Taco Truck: Corner of Mariposa and Carolina

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