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Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Hoisin Pork at 7th Street Cafe

Posted By on Wed, Sep 29, 2010 at 7:43 AM

click to enlarge Hoisin pork special with white rice and steamed veggies, $7.95. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Hoisin pork special with white rice and steamed veggies, $7.95.
Wednesday, September 29, 2010

This three-week-old place a short perp walk from the Hall of Justice can't tell you enough that it serves up self-tagged "comfort cuisine." Translation: slick-looking omelets, fried chicken, sandwiches, lopsided pizzas with braided crusts, and something called "Malibu chicken salad." It's all perfectly calibrated for meter maids with hungry-man appetites, husky bail bondsmen, and bailiffs with key wads jangling from their belts. And because this is San Francisco, the prevailing "comfort cuisine" here has an Asian heart ― like yesterday's daily special, hoisin pork with rice-cooker rice and steamed vegetables. That meant slices of loin with translucent fat caps, plastered with a sticky glaze, and a heap of pale green things (nappa cabbage, half-slices from monster zucchini) stunning for its flavor of slightly dirty water. Did we find comfort here? We did ― though applying the word "cuisine" rates about as ballsy as arguing your way out of a parking ticket you know you deserve.

7th Street Café: 525 Seventh St. (at Bryant), 800-8722.

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