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4. Tartine Bakery: 600 Guerrero (at 18th St.), 487-2600.Elisabeth Prueitt's DVD-diameter cookie is as oversized as Tartine's weekend queue snaking out the doors and onto Guerrero. If you get a chocolate chip cookie to go, face it: It'll break. But then, it's designed to be brittle, a delicate, pebbly brandysnap of a cookie paved with oats, walnut bits, and hand-chopped Valrhona chocolate pieces with cocoa-nib tannins. $2.25.
Grade: B+
