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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Al Fresco Al Pastor from Tacos San Buena

Posted By on Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 7:35 AM

A four-taco plate, $8. Clockwise from top left: Al pastor, pollo, carnitas, cabeza. - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • A four-taco plate, $8. Clockwise from top left: Al pastor, pollo, carnitas, cabeza.
Jonathan Kauffman
A four-taco plate, $8. Clockwise from top left: Al pastor, pollo, carnitas, cabeza.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010

The architects who designed Sidney Walton Park, at Jackson and Front, modeled it after an alpine meadow, ringed in tall buildings. They predicted, too, that on sunny days the park would attract a certain species of fauna, one that rolled up its sleeves a little higher and reclined with a book for a few gloriously selfish minutes of escape. They wouldn't have guessed that a half-century on, the park would become an ideal spot for a taco picnic, the provisions supplied by a truck parked two blocks west on Pacific.

It is one of the San Buena trucks, an established chain with a second downtown truck parked at Sansome and Sutter and two in the Mission. Ignore San Buena's watery chicken and mushy cabeza in favor of its pork ― the carnitas, nutty and tender, and the al pastor. On the latter, red-on-red pork tacos, the sweetish chile marinade rubs up against the vivid salsa napped over top, the two sauces grinding together, throwing off sparks. Even if the day never tops 70 degrees, the double spicing and a few pickled jalapeño slices will have you sweating as if you've just hiked up rocky paths to your destination. Wear your lederhosen to work and you complete the look.

Tacos San Buena: 375 Pacific (at Sansome).
 

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