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Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Cuban Sandwich Special from Oralia's

Posted By on Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 7:26 AM

click to enlarge Cuban on potato-rosemary roll with roast pork, ham, and Swiss, $7.49. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Cuban on potato-rosemary roll with roast pork, ham, and Swiss, $7.49.
Tuesday, September 7, 2010

You know the Cuban, right? An amalgam of porks and pickles, held in place by a matrix of melted Swiss and a sticky mayonnaise that can range from, well, sticky mayonnaise to a secret-sauce variant, griddled crisp. Not at Oralia's. Here the untoasted Cuban ― an occasional special ― achieves a kind of deconstruction, though the latex-gloved sandwich makers at this Dogpatch deli are hardly guys you'd peg as postmodernists.

Here, the Cuban is less an amalgamation and more a juxtaposition ― of thick-sliced house-baked pork loin and mildly smoky deli ham, chunky pickles, and cheese you can pick (you want Swiss), and a roll you can pick (you want the potato-rosemary). The pork has a healthy vein of fat running through it, and it's chewier than you'd think. This is among the burliest, most straightforward of Cubans, a Cuban built for construction workers, if only there were any around here. By default, HTML coders will have to do.

Oralia's Café: 2347 Third St. (at 20th St.), 621-2346.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

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