The slice ($3.50) lived up to its titular mission of being "New York style" with a thin, slightly crispy crust, barely sweet tomato sauce, and just the right amount of mozzarella ― Arinell finally has a worthy competitor in the slice arena.
There is no competition however for Tony's Chicken Parmesan Wedge ($7.50), easily the best of its kind that we've tried locally. A slab of breaded chicken breast is smothered with that same sauce and mozzarella from the pizza, embedded in a game-changing, oven-heated Acme Italian roll. It tasted like it was baked on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx.The only item that didn't live up to its Big Apple billing was the pastrami sandwich ($10), composed of a small portion of bland meat and a double layer of rubbery Swiss (you can request to have it without) on good rye, again from Acme. Though the menu proclaims the pastrami "house made," we confirmed with the chef that it's actually from meat purveyor Del Monte. Tony's adds its own spices and bakes it in the coal-fired oven.
Pastrami aside, we look forward to hitting up Tony's again for the whole pies (also done in the coal fired oven), Italian beef sandwiches, and Gino's Italian ice. But first we'll have to get The Bee Gees out of our head.
Tony's Coal Fired Pizza and Slice House: 1556 Stockton (at Union), 835-9888.
