Instead of wannabe hipsters and coiffed office types, lunchtime brings a rush of cops, construction workers, and City College students. The sandwich board is void of cutesy names, offering old standbys such as turkey, roast beef, and tuna. Remember those? Our standard order is the Roxie Special, a soulful combination of ham, mortadella, salami, your choice of cheese (let them choose), and marinated artichoke hearts, which add a healthy dose of zing. We order it warmed in the oven on a Dutch crunch roll, crunchy like a cracker on the outside, soft as a Philadelphia pretzel on the inside. What garden are the artichokes from? A can. Who baked the bread? We don't know or care. Stop asking so many questions and just enjoy your sandwich.
Roxie Food Center: 1901 San Jose (at Havelock), 587-2345.
