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Thursday, August 19, 2010

Don't Fear the Egg: Six Local Egg Dishes We Love

Posted By on Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 12:46 PM

Eggs from pastured chickens are usually available Tuesdays at Omnivore Books in Noe Valley, $8 per dozen. Owner Celia Sack collects them from a neighbor in the West Marin town of Tomales. - ARNOLD INUYAKE/FLICKR
  • Arnold Inuyake/Flickr
  • Eggs from pastured chickens are usually available Tuesdays at Omnivore Books in Noe Valley, $8 per dozen. Owner Celia Sack collects them from a neighbor in the West Marin town of Tomales.
The most recent salmonella scare involving factory-farmed eggs continues to mushroom. Hundreds of thousands of San Franciscans ― spooked by news that the eggs may have sickened people here ― are checking the serial numbers on their egg cartons against the FDA's recall list.

The scare made John Birdsall and me think about eggs ― specifically, what were the best egg dishes we'd eaten recently? We can't verify that any of the restaurants below avoid eggs from Wright County Eggs (the company involved in the recall), but given the chefs' professed commitment to high-quality, seasonal foods, we'd trust these dishes over an omelet from Denny's any time.

Slow-cooked egg
Commis 3859 Piedmont, Oakland, 510-653-3902, www.commisrestaurant.com.
 
Commis' signature amuse-bouche is a masterpiece of technique. Using an immersion circulator, James Syhabout slowly boils whole eggs

at low temperatures until they reach the temperature ― a tenth of a

degree matters here -- at which the yolk forms a perfect sphere of

custard. He peels away the shell and white, then sets the yolk on an

onion soubise with smoked dates, toasted oatmeal, and chives.

click to enlarge JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
Hard-boiled eggs of the day
Farm: Table, 754 Post (at Leavenworth), 292-7089, www.farmtablesf.com.



Cafes and convenience stores all over town sell hard-boiled eggs, but

none as ornate ― and delicious ― as the ones at this Tendernob cafe. Every

morning, Kate Amitin tweets

out her newest take on the egg. The version pictured at right involved

habañero chutney, radishes, and microgreens; another from last week

included

THOM Y./YELP
Warm egg salad sandwich
Il Cane Rosso, Ferry Building, 391-7599, www.canerossosf.com.

In John Birdsall's December review of Lauren Kiino's Ferry Building restaurant, he called Il Cane Rosso's Soul Food Farm egg salad "irresistible": "hashed until creamy, with a breath of caper and anchovy, topped

with a semimolten square of aged provolone."

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Jonathan Kauffman

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