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Wednesday, August 18, 2010

No French Revolution at Prospect, Says Jonathan Kauffman

Posted By on Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 1:58 PM

Prospect: Equal parts urbane and gargantuan. - LARA HATA/SF WEEKLY
  • Lara Hata/SF Weekly
  • Prospect: Equal parts urbane and gargantuan.
In the weeks before launching in late June, food blogdom's narrative called for Prospect to be the hipper, edgier spawn of Boulevard. Food blogdom got it wrong, notes food critic Jonathan Kauffman in today's "Eat" column in SF Weekly. Kauffman:
The restaurant is more like a $300 pair of jeans: Calling them casual and edgy betrays how long you've lived among the moneyed classes. A meal at Prospect costs $80 a person (and that's without counting cocktails); drinks and appetizers more like $50. After an anticlimactic first meal, I revised my expectations, ditching comparisons to the herd of wild-haired, experimental, lower-cost restaurants stampeding into town this summer. And when I returned, it became clear that everything Prospect actually wants to be ― urbane, subtle, playful in the mannered tones of an 18th-century French noble ― it realizes beautifully.
Ravi Kapur's dishes are honed to a blinglike polish ― they're far from raw, which is just fine with Kauffman. Especially in a dish offering up the double-pork pleasures of braised cheek and belly, served with shaved fennel salad and orange-scented grains. Lovely, sure. The anti-Boulevard French revolution? Nope.

Oh, and don't forget to get a taste of Prospect (without dropping the inevitable couple hundred) by clicking through photographer Lara Hata's slideshow, Chip Off the Old Boulevard.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Follow Jonathan Kauffman at @jonkauffman.

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