Of course, Bar Agricole's visuals are anything but Panissean. The original 1900 Jackson Brewery has been repainted in a thick coat of Dwell modern, all concrete booths, glass-straw skylight sheaths, and urbanscape photo murals. But chef Brandon Jew's Judy Rodgers-meets-Paul-Bertolli passed nibbles (fritto misto with aïoli, gougères, melon and prosciutto, rillettes), the biodynamic compost in the herb-and-lettuce garden up front, the bar's obsession with sourcing ― it all seemed to celebrate the aesthetics of figs on a plate. Without apology.
"Somebody last night said the whole place feels like it's curated," publicist Eleanor Bertino (a longtime friend of Alice) told me this morning. Kids, if you weren't around 20 years ago to catch the heady whiff of California Cuisine in its late prime, Bar Agricole just might be the exquisitely curated revival you didn't even know you were waiting for. We'll see.The place opens to the public Aug. 17.
Bar Agricole: 355 11th St. (at Folsom), 355-9400.
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