Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Friday, August 13, 2010

Bar Agricole: California Redux

Posted By on Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 2:41 PM

click to enlarge A server passes fritto misto at last night's Bar Agricole friends and family party. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • A server passes fritto misto at last night's Bar Agricole friends and family party.
It's been trendy in some quarters to bash the pure product of Bay Area foodism, all that minimal tweaking of ingredients, the short jog from farm to table, and a cookbook shelf that makes an even shorter walk from Elizabeth David to Alice Waters. But last night at the crazy clusterf%*k that was Bar Agricole's friends, family, and media christening, I had pretty much one thought: California Cuisine is back, baby. Unabashedly, too.

Of course, Bar Agricole's visuals are anything but Panissean. The original 1900 Jackson Brewery has been repainted in a thick coat of Dwell modern, all concrete booths, glass-straw skylight sheaths, and urbanscape photo murals. But chef Brandon Jew's Judy Rodgers-meets-Paul-Bertolli passed nibbles (fritto misto with aïoli, gougères, melon and prosciutto, rillettes), the biodynamic compost in the herb-and-lettuce garden up front, the bar's obsession with sourcing ― it all seemed to celebrate the aesthetics of figs on a plate. Without apology.

click to enlarge The owners, who include Thad Vogler and Mark Ellenbogen, take a strict notion of farm-to-bar sourcing. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • The owners, who include Thad Vogler and Mark Ellenbogen, take a strict notion of farm-to-bar sourcing.
"Somebody last night said the whole place feels like it's curated," publicist Eleanor Bertino (a longtime friend of Alice) told me this morning. Kids, if you weren't around 20 years ago to catch the heady whiff of California Cuisine in its late prime, Bar Agricole just might be the exquisitely curated revival you didn't even know you were waiting for. We'll see.

The place opens to the public Aug. 17.

Bar Agricole: 355 11th St. (at Folsom), 355-9400.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

  • Pin It

Tags: , , , , , ,

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"