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Thursday, August 12, 2010

The Great Food Truck Race Doesn't Sound So Great

Posted By on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 8:46 PM

The owner of Spencer on the Go suggests the Food Network show suffered from casting that was, well, lame. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • The owner of Spencer on the Go suggests the Food Network show suffered from casting that was, well, lame.
Our favorite morsel from the blogs.

Food Gal Carolyn Jung takes the PR call and schedules interview time with Laurent Katgely, the chef and owner of Chez Spencer and Spencer on the Go. The mobile bistro is a contestant in the Tyler Florence-fronted Food Network show that rolls out Sunday, The Great Food Truck Race. Seven trucks face off for what Jung calls all manner of zany food challenges. Frankly, we're still suffering from PCSD (post-Cosentino stress disorder) after having watched two episodes of Chef vs. City, two hours we'll never get back. So we can't promise we'll TiVo TyFlo. Of course, reading Jung's Q&A, we're less inclined to watch, since Katgely suggests the series' casting was ― who could've guessed? ― lame.

Of the seven trucks, five are from Southern California, one's from Austin, Tex., and then there's Spencer. Go, Jung:

Q: What surprised you most about doing this show?

A: The selection of the trucks. Five out of seven came from Los Angeles. I expected a truck from every single corner of the country. Like Chicago and Seattle have amazing trucks. I think there were better trucks around to be chosen. I found the selection kind of strange.

Sort of all we needed to hear.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

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Why Do You Review Some Little Mexican Restaurant When You Should Be Tackling Wayfare Tavern?

Posted By on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 4:56 PM

I like a Torta Gorda quesadilla as much as I do a Delfina pasta. - LARA HATA
  • Lara Hata
  • I like a Torta Gorda quesadilla as much as I do a Delfina pasta.
Today's "Ask the Critic" comes courtesy of J. B. at Grub Street SF, who writes in his weekly summary of restaurant reviews around the city:
In a summer rife with so many notable openings, both large and small, we don't totally understand why Jonathan Kauffman is still reviewing things like La Torta Gorda (see also his reviews of two lackluster Vietnamese crawfish joints and his roundup of food trucks that may be better left to Birdsall on the blog). We get that he wants to give attention to the little guys, but we need him out there using his one weekly review to give us a second opinion on all the stuff Bauer's covering, and then some, and saving the call-outs for tiny ethnic joints for the truly marvelous, off-the-grid places, or posts on SFoodie.

Well, J. B., you raise a good point. While you didn't phrase it as a question, I'll take any excuse to grandstand about my approach to reviewing restaurants, especially since I've been at the SF Weekly eight months and people may still be unfamiliar with what the hell I'm doing, week after week. 

There has always been a big difference between the way daily-newspaper restaurant critics and alt-weekly critics see our roles. Many daily critics, from the hallowed 1960s New York Times reviewer Craig Clairborne to the Chron's Mr. Bauer, have seen their job as a reader service. They have approached restaurant reviewing with a journalist's dispassionate objectivity and a quest for thoroughness and accuracy. Many daily critics also survey their city's restaurant scene with an eye to how it is viewed nationally. Dailies from the East to West Coasts also divide restaurants into review-worthy places and fodder for "ethnic"/"cheap eats" boxes, price generally being a dividing line.

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Baker and Banker, Perbacco, Farina, La Ciccia Pair Up for La Cocina Benefit

Posted By on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 4:31 PM

La Ciccia's stewed baby octopus.
  • La Ciccia's stewed baby octopus.
We know: What with this weekend's SFChefs kickoff, next weekend's

SF Street Food Festival (and conference), Outside Lands, Eat Real, Bar Agricole ― the Big Gay Ice Cream party, for chrissake ― it's hard to think of fitting in anything else. So we won't yet add Natural Wine Week (Aug. 23-28) to your crammed calendar, except to mention a benefit dinner with kind of a quietly spectacular lineup.

Baker and Banker will host the Aug. 23 five-course benefit for La Cocina. Chef/owner Jeff Banker is doing the first course ― a scallop duo, seared and crudo ― followed by La Ciccia's Massimo Conti, doing his famous stewed baby octopus. Farina's Paolo Laboa will bust out a duo of pasta, right before Perbacco's Staffan Terje's veal with tuna sauce. To finish off, peach crostata with verbena ice cream from B and B's Lori Baker. One seating, $150, all inclusive. Details after the jump.

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This Weekend, Outside Lands Looks Inside for Food Vendors

Posted By on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 3:42 PM

From last year's Outside Lands music festival, Pica Pica's cachapas. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • From last year's Outside Lands music festival, Pica Pica's cachapas.
Last year, SFoodie blogger Tamara Palmer braved the fog and mobs of rock dudes in calf-hugging black jeans at Outside Lands pretty much just to eat. "It was refreshing to have so many truly good edible distractions that we barely cared which band played on which stage at what time," Palmer recalled last month, in a preview of the eats assembled for this weekend's music jam.

Today at All Shook Down, our sister music blog, Emily Savage recaps the food offerings assembled by festival producer Another Planet Entertainment, for the fest, Aug. 14-15. No BBQ turkey legs, no funnel cakes. "Instead of hiring traditional street-food vendors, the organizers have gone to (or been approached by) actual brick-and-mortar restaurants, imploring chefs to truncate their menu into a smaller, less expensive hand-friendly meal," Savage writes.

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Whole Foods Hosting Multi-Culti Bistro Benefit for SF Street Food Fest

Posted By on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 2:40 PM

Azalina Eusope of Azalaina's Malaysian. - JUN BELEN
  • Jun Belen
  • Azalina Eusope of Azalaina's Malaysian.
Whole Foods is fund-raising for the SF Street Food Festival next week with a street-centric dinner prepared by three incubating businesses at La Cocina, organizer of the fest.

The meal leaps across continents, in a triple-course matchup that probably hasn't been attempted before. Purple Hibiscus is offering a Nigerian appetizer, El Buen Comer is doing a Mexican main course, and dessert is from Azalina's Malaysian. Whole Foods is selecting wines for pairing, though no bottles ― or countries of origin, for that matter ― have been specified yet.

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Regional Mexican Restaurants in San Francisco: A Tentative List

Posted By on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 1:34 PM

Pozole rojo, one of the specialties of Jalisco. - NOWAY/FLICKR
  • noway/Flickr
  • Pozole rojo, one of the specialties of Jalisco.

For this week's review, I stuck to the Poblano regional side of the menu at La Torta Gorda, which is mainly known for its sandwiches. Other than the defunct S.F. branch of Cocina Poblana (there are still two in the East Bay), La Torta Gorda is the first place in the city I've heard about that specializes in Puebla's tinga, tlacoyos, and mixiotes.

Over the past decade, we've seen more and more Mexican restaurants identify their food by the region the cooks come from. We've compiled a preliminary list of San Francisco restaurants that specialize in the food of specific regions. (Note: We're omitting Nopalito, a great source for hard-to-find regional specialties from all over the country.)

Not surprisingly, given immigration patterns, huge swaths of Mexico are underrepresented in S.F.'s food scene. Is there a Sonoran restaurant in San Francisco? What about places specializing in the food of Veracruz, Tamaulipas, Zacatecas, Chiapas? If you know of any ― or any Jaliscan, Yucatecan, or Oaxacan restaurants we've missed ― leave a comment.

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Sutton Cellars: An Urban Winery Grows in Dogpatch

Posted By on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 11:30 AM

Sutton Cellars' Carl Sutton. - LOU BUSTAMANTE
  • Lou Bustamante
  • Sutton Cellars' Carl Sutton.
Despite occasionally living up to the grittiness of its name, the Dogpatch is becoming one of the best neighborhoods in the city for food. Right off the T line, it boasts some notable residents: Recchiuti's production facility, Piccino, Serpentine, Kitchenette, and Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous, all within a single-block radius.

Joining the neighborhood's gourmet gang is wine and vermouth producer Sutton Cellars, a one-man show owned and operated by Carl Sutton since 1996. Sutton recently moved from Sonoma to make San Francisco his home.

"Yes it's a winery, but it's not a winery in the sense of Sonoma County or Napa style," Sutton says of his new digs in Dogpatch. "I'd love to eventually have a tasting room because I see that Oakland is letting their urban wineries have tasting rooms. It not only brings people to the neighborhood, but it improves the profile of the neighborhood."

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Superior Palace Feeds Nostalgia for the Supercheap Rice Plate

Posted By on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 10:46 AM

Mandarin pork spareribs plate, with built-in "dessert." - ALEX HOCHMAN
  • Alex Hochman
  • Mandarin pork spareribs plate, with built-in "dessert."
We fondly remember the days of supercheap Chinese rice-plate lunches, the kind we stuffed ourselves silly on under bad fluorescent lighting, returning to the office in desperate need of a breath mint and a nap. Well, we're happy to report that the supercheap Chinese rice plate is alive and well at Superior Palace in the Outer Richmond, where $5 does the trick.

That's right, $5. The 12 choices include minced beef with egg and curry chicken. However, our go-to is the Mandarin pork spareribs plate, loaded with fried pieces of pounded, on-the-bone rib meat completely drenched in gleaming sweet and sour sauce. It's easy to pick up the addictive ribs with chopsticks, thus avoiding sticky hand syndrome for the rest of the workday. A pile of rice sits alongside, patiently waiting to be moshed with the sauce to create an impromptu dessert.

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Zut! Replaces Eccolo, No Worries Has a Job for You

Posted By on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 8:35 AM

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​The past 24 hours in gossip, innuendo, and cold hard facts about the San Francisco restaurant scene.

Carolyn A. of Eater is one of first to get the memo that the old Eccolo space in Berkeley is to become Zut! (1820 Fourth St., Berkeley,www.zutonfourth.com). The pitch: Mediterranean food ranging from rotisserie-cooked lamb to pizzas and tagines; the name translates as "Durnit!" or "M'gosh!" Chef Jim Wimborough has restaurants like Kokkari and Boulevard on his resume, and GM Steven Decker was one of the co-founders of Cafe Claude. Target opening date is August 31.

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Grilled Tri-Tip Sandwich from Town Hall BBQ

Posted By on Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 7:40 AM

Marinated tri-tip sandwich, caramelized onions, Creole mustard ($9). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Marinated tri-tip sandwich, caramelized onions, Creole mustard ($9).
Thursday, August 12, 2010

Maybe it's the relentlessly gray weather, but Town Hall BBQ ― the summer-long lunchtime cookout behind the Rosenthal brothers' kitchen ― seems drained of some of the tasty it had back in April, when the season began.

Yesterday a straggle of mostly guys lined up at the grill, as the cowboy-hatted counter dude hollered out orders to the line cooks standing literally feet away from him, as if he were Keith Urban doing shout-outs to a stadium mob. "SAUSage!" "TRItip!" Annoying, I observed to my lunchmate.

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