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Friday, August 6, 2010

Mijita's Chilaquiles

Posted By on Fri, Aug 6, 2010 at 7:29 AM

click to enlarge Chilaquiles with refried beans ($6.75) and scrambled egg ($1.50). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Chilaquiles with refried beans ($6.75) and scrambled egg ($1.50).
Friday, August 6, 2010

Maybe, like egg salad or doughnuts, chilaquiles are never really bad. What makes them good: attention to texture, plus, as a starting point, a tortilla base that strives for more than the grease and salt of indifferent salsa chips.

Is Mijita ― either Mijita ― the perfect taqueria? Hell no. Traci Des Jardins' most accessible eateries are far from accessible enough. The tacos can be tasty, and they're definitely rooted in impeccable sourcing, but you leave with the impression that the places are about as top-down and sapped of personality as a Chipotle.

click to enlarge JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
But not the chilaquiles (available daily at the AT&T location, weekends at the Ferry Building).

House-made tortillas, turned into tostones, then drenched in ladles of guajillo salsa they absorb, have the kind of messy spontaneity Mijita's tacos lack. The pool of refried beans they gaze upon have some subtly weedy taste (oregano maybe), and if you spring for an egg (you should), there's a jiggly other texture to linger over.

Mijita: 24 Willie Mays Plaza (at King and Third St.); 644-0240.

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