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Thursday, July 29, 2010

Next Month's Eat Real Festival Won't Just Be About Scarfing Sisig Tacos

Posted By on Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 5:49 PM

Food crafters, this is your Woodstock. - ESZSARA/FLICKR
  • eszsara/Flickr
  • Food crafters, this is your Woodstock.
Our favorite morsel from the Web.

A month before Eat Real takes over Jack London Square like some county fair in a parallel universe, where corn dogs taste like Mangalitsas and kombucha refreshes like Dr. Pepper, organizer Anya Fernald has leaked the festival's manifesto. Well, not leaked so much as posted at Chow.com, where she goes all Four Freedoms, sketching out a basic roster of bullet points essential for what she calls revitalizing and re-energizing American food. First among them: defining, she says, the notion of food craft. Fernald:

"Food craft is the transformation of raw ingredients with techniques that change and build flavor, make foods last longer, and increase the impact of land and place on flavor.

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Notes from Saturday's Suds and Sweets Pairing at Thorough Bread and Pastry

Posted By on Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 5:17 PM

TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
Raj Dev is a banker by day and a certified sommelier ― well, not even by night, but just for the passion of it. Dev occasionally collaborates with wife Erin Bailey, vice president of the San Francisco Baking Institute, to host Suds and Sweets events, featuring beer and dessert pairings at SFBI's retail bakery Thorough Bread and Pastry. We checked out one such event last weekend.

Raj Dev. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • Raj Dev.
Dev told us he shied away from American beers when putting the pairings together (with pastry chef Boris Portnoy), since their high hop content skews bitter. Besides, he said, he had fun geeking out on Belgian and German offerings considered obscure or rare, though he found many at SOMA's City Beer Store.

So do beer and pastry go together? We'd say yes. And no, sometimes, but we appreciated the contrasts almost as much as the similarities in Dev's selections. Certain ones created a special alchemy. Floris Apple, a Witbier ale, intensified the caramel notes in a delicate napoleon, for instance, while Samichlaus Helles, a Doppelbock lager, spiced up the apples in a galette. Even when the alchemy didn't happen, Suds and Sweets was a unique educational experience well worth discovering.

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Forget What We Said: Pal's Takeaway Is Opening This Saturday

Posted By on Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 4:40 PM

Pal's won't look so dead this Saturday. We think. - GENEVIEVE Y./YELP
  • Genevieve Y./Yelp
  • Pal's won't look so dead this Saturday. We think.
Okay, so it's not just new-launch bistros tripped up by opening delays in San Francisco. Even sandwich counters hoping to add an extra day of service can miss a target date.

Earlier this month, we reported that Pal's Takeaway would open for lunch on Saturdays, starting July 17. Wrong. Turns out this Saturday ― July 31 ― will see the actual debut of Pal's weekend edition.

To anyone who showed up at the Pal's counter at Tony's Market a couple of Saturdays ago, craving a meatball sandwich: well, by now you've no doubt forgotten the Vallarta super burrito you had to console yourself with. Though we can't vouch for the presence of meatballs, bring your appetite this Saturday and find redemption. But, um, call first.

Pal's Takeaway: Inside Tony's Market, 2751 24th St. (at Hampshire), 203-4911.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

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With Rice Paddy Art, Japanese Village Creates Tourist Bonanza

Posted By on Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 4:05 PM

Images are "painted" using thousands of rice plants genetically engineered to have different hues. - SHIHO FUKADA/NEW YORK TIMES
  • Shiho Fukada/New York Times
  • Images are "painted" using thousands of rice plants genetically engineered to have different hues.
In Inakadate, a village in rural northern Japan, rice is not just an important crop, a staple, it's a medium for intricate, colorful paddy art that might make Christo or Andy Goldsworthy just a little bit hungry.

According to a July 25 New York Times article, a local clerk named Koichi Hanada came up with the idea 20 years ago to "paint" massive, sprawling pictures using thousands and thousands of rice plants, after his boss begged him to find a way to draw tourists to their sleepy community. He's been quite successful, too. Last year in September, when the rice grows long enough to perfectly render the images, over 170,000 visitors passed through the town of less than 9,000 mostly older residents, causing traffic snares and other difficulties.

Writer Martin Fackler deems the project a distinct cultural creation:

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Will Andrew Zimmern Show Up at Sunday's Precita Birthday Bash for Adobo Hobo?

Posted By on Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 3:23 PM

Adobo Hobo, frying up sisig for tacos. - JRODMANJR/FLICKR
  • jrodmanjr/Flickr
  • Adobo Hobo, frying up sisig for tacos.
Against the glamour of the wrapped food truck, the humble cart ― not to mention the folding table ― seems human-sized. That can only add to the intimacy of Sunday's birthday party for charter members of the Mission's new-school vendors the Gumbo Man, Adobo Hobo, and the Chai Cart, all celebrating their one-year anniversary in Precita Park, even if a demi-star of basic cable chooses to show.

Joining the birthday hawkers: Magic Curry Kart, the don of last summer's street-food explosion, along with Chile Lindo, Sweet Constructions, and a handful of newer vendors (SF Delicious Chef, Mad4Madeleines, Mali Num Num), plus the debut of Mr. Arroz Caldo. And though it's an unconfirmed rumor, the street (well, Twitter and Facebook) is buzzing with the possibility of a production crew for the Travel Channel taping an episode of Appetite for Life. That's the experiential, on the road food show, with Andrew Zimmern serving as a shaven-headed Bourdain-Fieri hybrid, skilled at mugging.

Even if Zimmern ends up feeling like a party crasher, really: What's a birthday party without home movies? The party in Precita goes down Sunday, August 1, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

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Off the Grid, Urban Wine Experience, Street-Food Birthday: Your Weekend Planner

Posted By on Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 2:44 PM

Friday: Happy Dumpling cheers up Fort Mason Center. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Friday: Happy Dumpling cheers up Fort Mason Center.
Can you believe it's almost August? Before summer advances into downed foliage and the sun starts setting before the end of happy hour, there's no better weekend to head out and enjoy yourself.

Fri., July 30:

• Feeling a little bit glum that July is ending? Fort Mason Center should be your Friday night dining destination, when Happy Dumplings will be in the house for the roaming mobile food extravaganza Off the Grid parks from 5 pm to 9 pm. There are many other street vendors in addition to Happy's to put a smile on your face, along with a side of music, craft, and soul (no, Aretha Franklin will not be performing -- unfortunately).

Off the Grid: Fort Mason Center, 5-9 p.m.

Sat., July 31:

• In addition to rodeos and XXX conventions, the Cow Palace is now home to one of the Bay Area's newest farmers' markets. Peaches, cherry tomatoes, and eggplant take over the lower lot at Gate D, Saturday mornings through October 16, along with mobile food vendors Chairman Bao, Hapa SF, and Tacos El Ranchito. The Cow Palace might have been built for livestock, but produce owns the parking lot.

Cow Palace Farmers' Market: Lower lot, Gate D, 2600 Geneva (at Carter), Daly City; Sat., 9 a.m.-1 p.m.

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Mint Plaza Farmers' Market a Chill Alternative to Heart of the City

Posted By on Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 1:23 PM

Yesterday was week two for the seasonal Mint Plaza Farmers' market. - MARY LADD
  • Mary Ladd
  • Yesterday was week two for the seasonal Mint Plaza Farmers' market.
Yesterday's Mint Plaza Farmers' Market ― overall a smaller, somewhat tidier version of Heart of the City, happening simultaneously at Civic Center ― offered a chance to buy bread from two bakers (Beckmann's and Bakers of Paris), jars of spices from Spice Hound, and produce from a handful of mostly organic farms.

The week-old market, slated for Wednesdays through October 27, is organized by Urban Table, a South Bay nonprofit that produces smaller markets in business plazas and city centers. They're behind the North Beach Sunday market, too.

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Trash: The Downside of Street Food

Posted By on Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 10:57 AM

Aftermath of an evening at the Off the Grid food-truck gathering. - JONATHAN KAUFFMAN
  • Jonathan Kauffman
  • Aftermath of an evening at the Off the Grid food-truck gathering.
After eating a dozen or so food-truck meals in the past few weeks, the disgusting side of the Summer of Truck became apparent: all that trash. I ended up with boxes in my car, boxes strapped to my bike, enough grease-stained paper bags to fuel a bonfire, and napkins in places napkins should never go. Even when I ate standing up, next to the source of the food, a couple of the trucks didn't set up trash bins, so I had to pack my own trash out. Sure, I recycled or composted most of it, but I'd rather have less of it in the first place.

The trash problem hit its peak at the weekly Off the Grid street-food gathering at Fort Mason Center, when two friends and I accumulated the above pile of detritus. When I spoke to Off the Grid's organizer Matt Cohen yesterday, I asked him if there was any way to cut down on the mess:

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St. Francis Fountain Expanding Into Candy Kitchen; Should Open This Weekend

Posted By on Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 9:48 AM

Deceased lingerie shop Candy Kitchen will house an expanded St. Francis Fountain. - SEAN94112/FLICKR
  • Sean94112/Flickr
  • Deceased lingerie shop Candy Kitchen will house an expanded St. Francis Fountain.
Decent pie, fine shakes, weak scrambles, and heavily tattooed waitresses nursing hangovers worse than yours, still pissed at their alarm clocks, and taking it out on you ― that's St. Francis Fountain, by now a landmark on the 24th St. corridor. A local legend holds that, way back in 1956, the 49ers were birthed in a booth on the back of a paper napkin. Nowadays, St. Francis is a breakfast and brunch hot spot. We're not exactly sure why, but hordes of pale, shades-wearing folk clog the sidewalks outside every weekend morning and afternoon.

Beginning this weekend though, if all goes to plan, there'll be a little more room for all right next door. The diner/soda fountain is expanding, the long-haired fellow behind the counter told us yesterday afternoon ― taking over digs appropriately formerly inhabited by Candy Kitchen, a lingerie boutique at 2807 24th (it closed last March), and reportedly, way back before time, the actual confectionery wing of St. Francis. Insert jokes about whipped cream, extra nuts, soft bananas, and cherries on top.

St. Francis Fountain: 2801 24th St. (at York), 826-4200.

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Papito Esta Abriendo, Viva Goa Lives!, Plum Ripens

Posted By on Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 8:40 AM

bee_banner1.jpg
​The past 24 hours in gossip, innuendo, and cold hard facts about the

San Francisco restaurant scene.

At Inside Scoop, Paolo L. reports that Papito (317 Connecticut, 695-0147, www.papitosf.com) should finally open on Friday for dinner. And although Papito comes from Chez Papa owner Jocelyn Bulow, who's brought one of his Papa cooks to run it, Papito is not -- let us repeat, not -- a Nopa/Nopalito copycat. The pitch: a 17-seater serving organic, possibly Oaxaca-focused Mexican food from chef Rodolfo Castellanos Reyes.

Chowhound duchess Melanie W. spots Viva Goa (2420 Lombard, 440-2600, vivagoaindiancuisine.com) in the Marina. The pitch: menu with Indian standards and quite a few dishes unique to Goa, the Southern Indian coastal state.

Another Paolo L. inside scoop: Plum, the Daniel Patterson (Coi)-meets-Jeremy Fox (ex-Ubuntu) mashup, is not due to open in downtown Oakland until this fall. But starting next week, Fox and co. are launching a Monday-night series of weekly preview dinners at Il Cane Rosso. The pitch: four courses for $45 and NO RESERVATIONS, which SFoodie predicts will result in clusterfuck. If you have any strings you can pull to get a table, better start yanking 'em hard.

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