The fried tomatoes might've been California heirloom rather than Carolina green, but the cornmeal-crusted sweet fruit was really just a vehicle for some seriously garlicky aïoli.
The shrimp and hot sausage grits got a lift from a broth made of shrimp shells and sweet corn. Mustard BBQ ribs and oxtail were fun to layer with collard greens, candied jalapeño, and pickled watermelon ― and as much Hoppin' John (black-eyed peas and rice) as would fit on the fork after getting all those other flavors in there. Even traditional Low Country boiled peanuts got a little Soul Cocina remix, as chef Roger Feely threw in some Thai curry paste into the salted garlic broth.
The Southern Soul Supper is back tonight from 6-9:30 p.m., with both seated and takeout service available. The full menu is on La Victoria's site.
La Victoria Bakery 2937 24th St. (at Alabama), 642-7120.
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