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Thursday, July 15, 2010

Ask the Critic: Where Should I Lunch After a Trip to OAK?

Posted By on Thu, Jul 15, 2010 at 10:47 AM

Octopus tostada from Mariscos La Costa, just a few miles north of OAK. - GWEN/FLICKR
  • gwen/Flickr
  • Octopus tostada from Mariscos La Costa, just a few miles north of OAK.
Today, @aynsavoy Tweeted me to ask:

Picking up my mother at OAK

around noon; where should we go for lunch?

The 140-character answer: El Huarache Azteca (3842 International Blvd., at 39th St., Oakland), just off the Fruitvale exit. When I lived in Seattle and would fly into Oakland to visit friends, the epically muraled, family-friendly restaurant was usually my first Bay Area meal ― for pozole and huaraches slathered in beans and grilled chicken, gorditas stuffed with chicharron, or quesadillas made with freshly pressed masa (cornmeal).

A further Twitter exchange indicated that @aynsavoy's mother is pescatarian, and if I remember correctly, many of the antojitos can be ordered with huitlacoche and corn or squash blossoms.

On a day like today, though, I might pass up El Huarache Azteca in favor of the nearby Mariscos La Costa (3625 International Blvd., at 37th St.) for ceviche tostadas and seafood cocteles. I've been coming here since it was a tiny truck with a stainless-steel rail that we would stand over, slurping coctel from plastic bowls, and the shrimp and octopus are as fresh and sweet as ever.

Now, if your mother doesn't want Mexican food...

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Trick Dog Shakes Hands with Flour + Water, RNM is RIP

Posted By on Thu, Jul 15, 2010 at 8:40 AM

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The past 24 hours in S.F.

restaurant gossip, puffery, and cold, hard facts.

At Inside Scoop, Paolo L. gets wind that Scott Baird (15 Romolo) and Josh Harris, collectively known as the Bon Vivants (that's a business name, not something strangers call them off the cuff), as well as Jason Henton are starting up a bar in the massive food complex being constructed at 3000 20th Street. Other tenants will be new projects from Flour + Water and Humphry Slocombe. The forthcoming bar's name: Trick Dog. We could take that many, many, places, none of which would leave SFoodie's much-abused professional reputation intact.

Jay B. at Grub

Street pegged it, then Inside Scoop confirmed

it yesterday (we believed you in the first place, Jay, we swear): RNM

is permanently closed.
  

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Chicken and Waffle at Frisco Fried

Posted By on Thu, Jul 15, 2010 at 7:44 AM

House Special two-piece fried chicken and waffle ($5.99, $1 extra for the breast). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • House Special two-piece fried chicken and waffle ($5.99, $1 extra for the breast).
Thursday, July 15, 2010

JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
Hard to believe Frisco Fried has been open only six months. At 2 p.m. yesterday, the Bayview soul-food restaurant felt like the kind of place that defines a neighborhood, as ladies with sunglasses and Coach purses waited for grocery-bag-size takeout, and a young woman under a shimmering sweep of ringlets showed off week-old little Dontaye to the cooing staff.

The place is painted Giants orange, decorated with enough home-team totems to make you think the games were still being played at nearby Candlestick. There's a gallery of African American heroes ― Dr. King, of course, and a Christmas-card-ready portrait of the Obamas. Handsome as that is, it can't touch Frisco Fried's House Special chicken and waffle, two crisp-crusted pieces of some of the moistest bird this side of Treasure Island. The flavor pulses on the strength of salt and garlic powder, counterpoint to the waffle's restrained pumpkin-pie-spice sweetness: a classic version from Bayview's new soul-food destination.

Frisco Fried 5176 Third St. (at Thomas), 822-1517.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

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