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Tuesday, July 13, 2010

The Way We Wish All Recipes Were Written

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 6:25 PM

AIMEE SHAPIRO/BAY AREA BITES
  • Aimee Shapiro/Bay Area Bites
Our favorite morsel from the blogs.

At Bay Area Bites, Andrew Simmons offers up a recipe. No, not a list of shit things, dead on the page as a nutritional label, but a recollection, a reckoning of how he made a soup, green chickpea and cauliflower. Simmons:

From green garlic shoots, to slender asparagus, to sweet early-season cherry tomatoes, I have, with regard to the realm of edible vegetation, a tendency to prize fresh young things. When I saw the green garbanzos nestled like weird little grubs in a big basket in the Bi-Rite produce case, I was consumed by the desire to harness their youth, pea-like flavor, and agreeably grassy pallor, and express them fully and vigorously in a simple yet well-calibrated dish.
Read it slow, pen and paper at the ready. And if you miss anything, you can get the flavor of the thing in the writing alone.

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

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Trade Ya: 18 Reasons Cookbook Swap Goes Down Thursday

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:46 PM

Nah, this isn't the one we knicked.
  • Nah, this isn't the one we knicked.
We admit it: We once pinched a cookbook from a restaurant where we used to work. The author had inscribed something nice to the owner and everything: "In remembrance of a lovely meal," something like that. Sure, we felt bad, but not as bad as if we'd never had the stolen the cookbook in the first place.

At 18 Reasons' cookbook swap Thursday, there's a chance we could atone for our theft by dropping something really, really good into the pile, and seeking out the lamest book in return. Some early-'90s softcover exploring the intricacies of low-cal Tex-Mex, or a baby food recipe manual.

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Social Kitchen's Brewmaster's Dinner Series Bubbles Up Next Week

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 4:58 PM

Rich Higgins, the brewmaster in question. - BRIAN YAEGER
  • Brian Yaeger
  • Rich Higgins, the brewmaster in question.
This gets slightly complicated, so pay attention.

Beginning in August, Social Kitchen and Brewery will host a monthly Brewmaster's Dinner: multiple courses organized around a particular theme, paired with Rich Higgins' house brews. The brew-fixe dinners, as it were, are scheduled for the first Wednesday of each month, except for the very first dinner, which goes off next Wednesday, July 21. As with subsequent Brewmaster Dinners, it'll start off with an appetizer reception: three apps, two beers, and a beer cocktail. Cost is $30, including the beer.

Next week's kickoff hews to a comfort food theme: chicken wings, beef stroganoff ― menu highlights after the jump. Chef in charge: Dante Simoncini, who's taken over from Social's opening consulting chef, Rob Lam, whose contract was up. Simoncini hails from Lam-run Butterfly.

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Off the Grid Organizer Seeking Permits for Street-Food Markets in S.F. Parks

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 3:54 PM

Rec and Park commissioners vote Thursday to allow Off the Grid-like markets in three city parks. - CHRIS MACARTHUR/SF WEEKLY
  • Chris MacArthur/SF Weekly
  • Rec and Park commissioners vote Thursday to allow Off the Grid-like markets in three city parks.
The organizer of S.F.'s Off the Grid street-food market at Fort Mason Center could soon be rolling out similar events in three city parks. At Thursday's regularly scheduled meeting of Rec and Park, commissioners will consider whether to grant the San Francisco Cart Project permits to organize weekly mobile food markets at Mission Playground, in Golden Gate Park near the Haight, and at Civic Center Plaza. Public comment will be allowed.

SF Cart Project's Matt Cohen said that, if the seven-member commission approves his RFP, each venue could see regular street-food events. "They would all vary in size depending on safety, the interest of the community, and the actual space," Cohen said.

If approved, the permit would allow Cohen to organize weekly street-food events at Mission Playground on Saturdays from noon to dusk (up to eight vendors allowed). A closed-off stretch of Waller Street in Golden Gate Park could see mobile vendors Tuesdays from 4 p.m. to dusk, and Sundays between 2 p.m. and dusk (no more than 15 vendors allowed). And Joseph Alioto Performing Arts Plaza in Civic Center could host a mobile food market Fridays from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. (up to five vendors).

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Batch 19 Pre-Prohibition Lager: Party Like It's 1919

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 3:14 PM

MILLERCOORS
  • MillerCoors
With speakeasies, Savoy cocktails, and other early-20th century booze culture touchstones back in action, it's only natural beer should get roaring. We got our first taste of MillerCoors' new Batch 19 Pre-Prohibition Lager at the First Annual Giants Brewfest, an event showcasing local craft beers ('cept that the "Pre-Pro" Lager is neither craft nor locally brewed).

San Francisco is one of five select test markets for this new product, which claims to be a replica of a recipe brewed by Coors before the onset of national Prohibition struck in 1920 (Colorado, home of the Adolph Coors Co., enacted statewide prohibition in 1916). This honey-colored, vanilla-sweet beer with a suggestion of hop bite in the aftertaste can be found on draft only at five city saloons ― The Parlor, McTeague's, 83 Proof, Hotel Utah, Lush Lounge ― and at The Brit down in San Jose.

MillerCoors says the recipe is an exact replica of one recently rediscovered in a brewer's recipe log, but the malted grains and hops are merely educated guesses in replicating the flavor, especially considering Batch 19 does contain some corn. It's a little hard to imagine a mouthfeel this clean in the Pre-Pro era, but, compared to other American premium lagers, this doesn't offend the way its 21st century brethren do.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Follow Brian Yaeger at @yaeger.

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Jessica Simpson's New Vegan Diet Guru Works Out of San Francisco

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 12:51 PM

US WEEKLY
  • US Weekly
Jessica Simpson's weight is back in the tabloids again, this time as a result of a "desperate" and "radical" new diet she's supposedly taken on thanks to the advice of her spanking-new boyfriend, former 49ers tight end Eric Johnson. OK! Magazine reports that Simpson recently went on a weekend retreat of vegan eating and Pu-erh tea drinking led by Master Ming Yi Wang. And as it turns out, Master Wang's home base is right here in San Francisco.

Master Wang receives in-person consultations at the Mission District's Medicine Buddha Teahouse and Healing Center and also sells herbal remedies online via his Zen and Tea shop, where prices reach as high as $800 for a 12.6-ounce "Aged Zen Cake" of Pu-erh. The Medicine Buddha website lists "elite athletes, weekend warriors, [and] chronic pain sufferers" among its clientele.

"Shocked my system with a vegan diet, special Pu-erh tea from China, and cupping since Friday!" Simpson tweeted June 27. "Who am I right now? This might be too clean!"

Medicine Buddha Teahouse and Healing Center 2 Shotwell (at 14th St.), 626-6090.

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Mind Your Neck: Elixir Celebrating Bastille Day with Actual Guillotine

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 12:19 PM

Sure, they're French. - H. JOSEPH E./YELP
Bastille Day, a chance to observe fashionable Frenchies toast their July 14 national holiday: air kisses on both cheeks, heavy accents, delectable vittles (yes, there will be cake), and everything from Lillet Rouge to heartier adult beverages.

You might not think of Elixir as a Bastille Day destination, even if it is close to a certain popular crêpe spot. But tomorrow night, the Mission bar is hosting a unique first-time twist on the holiday. Along with booze, wine, giveaways, and prizes, Elixir promises a functioning guillotine, doing double duty as a prop to hype Matt Stewart's first novel, The French Revolution (Soft Skull Press, $15.95).

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With Locanda da Eva, Former SF Weekly Critic Robert Lauriston Switches Sides

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 10:41 AM

LOCANDA DA EVA
  • Locanda da Eva
I find myself in an odd position: Interviewing one of my former restaurant-critic colleagues about the restaurant he's opening. Robert Lauriston, prominent Chowhound and eater-about-town, has written restaurant reviews for both the East Bay Express and SF Weekly, as well as SFoodie (though never during the same period as I have). Now he's opening Locanda de da Eva in Berkeley, in the space that once housed Mazzini Trattoria and Zax Tavern. I thought I'd ask the aspiring George Bernard Shaw straight out: What's a restaurant critic doing opening a restaurant?

SFoodie: So how's it going?

Lauriston: I'm doing fine. It's sort of an odd situation. I don't know what I'm doing, so I hired a chef (Huw Thornton, last of SPQR at A16 ― his sample menu is posted on the website), who is handling everything in the kitchen, and a GM (Matt Derrick of Terzo, Pesce, and Cortez) who is handling everything in the front of the house. I'm just handling the administrative details ― decoration, contracting, the wine list ― so I'm caught up while everyone else is slammed with friends-and-family [dinner] stuff.
 

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Kitchen Unplugged: The Lost Art of Real Cooking Taking It Old School at Omnivore

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 10:16 AM

9780399535888h.jpg
In The Lost Art of Real Cooking (Penguin Group, $18.95), a special kind of cookbook from authors Ken Albala and Rosanna Nafziger, you won't find any recipes involving boneless, skinless chicken breasts or cans of soup, or cutesy abbreviations for larder staples. Instead, this work celebrates a return to old-fashioned methods of food preparation that can be, most times, laborious and time-consuming, but also immensely rewarding: traditional, artisanal processes like culturing butter, harnessing wild sourdoughs, rendering lard, smoking meats, making pickles, and crafting cheese ― all without the aid of expensive kitchen equipment. Albala and Nafziger are appearing at Omnivore Books a week from Saturday to press the flesh. Show up and they'll sign a copy ― probably with a quill and some beet-juice ink.

Ken Albala and Rosanna Nafziger with The Lost Art of Real Cooking

When: Sat., July 24, 3-4 p.m.

Where: Omnivore Books on Food, 3885a Cesar Chavez (at Church), 282-4712

Cost: Free

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Dinosaurs Roars (Into Life), Spork Avoids Destruction (Again)

Posted By on Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 8:30 AM

We snapped this pic last week.
  • We snapped this pic last week.
Sticking our head in the echo chamber of San Francisco restaurant gossip so you don't have to.

We snapped this pic last week.
  • We snapped this pic last week.
Jay B. at Grub Street gets a few details on Dinosaurs (16th Street between Prosper and Market), in the ground level of that Castro mini-mall right by Ike's Place ― SFoodie remembers a smoothie shop there a while back. The pitch: Apparently, Vietnamese sandwiches.

Jay B. also reports that Spork's demolition is postponed once again.

While we've all reported on the opening today of Citizen's Band (1198 Folsom, 556-4901) from the cooks behind Pinkie's Bakery, Bento415, and Uva Enoteca, Paolo L. at Inside Scoop discovers that the menu skews all-American and finds the website: citizensbandsf.com.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie

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