Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Cubano from Thee Parkside's Lunch Window

Posted By on Thu, Jul 8, 2010 at 7:33 AM

click to enlarge Cubano: grilled pork, ham, and Swiss with pickles and chipotle mayo ($9). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Cubano: grilled pork, ham, and Swiss with pickles and chipotle mayo ($9).
Thursday, July 8, 2010

click to enlarge JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
Late-week lunchtimes, Thee Parkside's corner is all but barren of foot traffic, though the wrack from late-night punk fans is everywhere: crumpled cig packs, a punctured beach ball, and on any vertical surface reachable by tattooed forearms, band stickers.

From the cook who has to stretch his driver-capped head out of the Wisconsin Street takeout window to hear, you can order a sandwich: hunks of cornmeal fried chicken spliced into a floppy burger bun, a banh mi-like tofu number. The best might be Thee Parkside Cubano, a crackly pressed roll layered up with smoky pink ham, Swiss that melts into a kind of stretchy adhesive, and thin, brittle slices of pork shoulder cooked long enough to banish all traces of fatty. There are pickle slices, of course, and a smear of chipotle mayo you wish were heftier. Solid, not spectacular.

Delicious, though, are the tater tots, which are what you think, only thickly sanded with black pepper so they throb like a Rancid bass line.

Thee Parkside Takeout Window 1600 17th St. (at Wisconsin), 252-1330. The window's on Wisconsin; opens Weds.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"