Like some World Cup official, Kauffman weighs Colombian against Venezuelan in a search for the essence of arepa-ness. Kauffman: "A thick, soft corn cake, split like an English muffin and filled with almost anything, including cheese and vegetables, the arepa is the platypus of handheld foods ― belonging to both the sandwich and the tortilla-pupusa classes." What's more, Mr. Pollo's Manny Torres Gimenez, who's labored in the zona gastronomica of Coi, A16, and Quince, has aspirations beyond the humble sandwich cognate. Get a taste of Manny's four-course tasting menu ― and get a healthy whiff of the vibrant Chipotle vibe at Pica Pica ― at SFWeekly.com.
Oh, and in today's "Eat" Extra, Jonathan Kauffman rounds up the Bay Area's growing circle of South American food vendors.
