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Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Who's Behind Those Trader Joe's Generics? You'd Be Surprised

Posted By on Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 6:12 PM

The SOMA store: So much mystery. - KEVIN Y./YELP
  • Kevin Y./Yelp
  • The SOMA store: So much mystery.
Our favorite morsel from the Web.

Mystery washes through Trader Joe's like a tsunami's advance wave. Who, exactly, are the nonagenarian German brothers behind the megachain? Why do hippies in Berkeley and North Oakland show up to fill hemp shopping bags with organic yogurt, when the stores overwrap absurdly small amounts of produce in enough petro-packaging to clog a landfill? And how did TJ's ugly tropical-shirt motif ever survive the '80s?

So many questions. And yet, Tuesday at The Faster Times, Amy Westervelt shed some light on everybody's favorite sample-pimping food store. Like, who makes some of TJ's generic products? Westervelt whipped out a dozen revelations.

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Local Mission Eatery's Jake and Shauna Des Voignes: The SFoodie Interview, Part 1

Posted By on Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 4:43 PM

Jake and Shauna Des Voignes with Knead Patisserie's morning setup in front of Local Mission Eatery. - CHRIS MACARTHUR/SF WEEKLY
  • Chris MacArthur/SF Weekly
  • Jake and Shauna Des Voignes with Knead Patisserie's morning setup in front of Local Mission Eatery.
It's 10:30 on a weekday morning, at a spot along the traditionally Spanish-speaking heart of 24th Street in the Mission. As she does every morning, Shauna Des Voignes has set up a table in the doorway of Local Mission Eatery, home, too, to Knead Patisserie, where Des Voignes, 26, is pastry chef. She's smiling and pretty, her blonde hair pulled back in a pony tail, presiding over a spread of finely hewn breakfast pastries, plush-looking tea breads, even beef short-rib turnovers. A man, late 50s, wiry, asks in accented English how much a sandwich costs. There are no sandwiches on the Knead table, but des Voignes explains that the restaurant opens at 11; the guy can get a sandwich then.

"How much?" he asks.

"Nine dollars ― at 11," Des Voignes says.

He appears to misunderstand. "Eleven dollars?" he asks, grinning wide, as if Des Voignes were, well: crazy. "Hoooo-eeee!" he says in a crackly falsetto before shaking his head, still grinning, and moving on down the block.

Just another day on the new 24th Street.

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Get Ready to (C)rumble: Omnivore's Stone-Fruit Smackdown Happens Saturday

Posted By on Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 4:21 PM

SEASONALCHEF.COM
  • seasonalchef.com
Omnivore Books is holding the latest in its series of sometimes esoteric cooking competitions this Saturday. This time it's a seasonal fruit throwdown ― no need to apply, just show up with your best apricot, nectarine, plum, aprium, pluot, or other stone fruit dish, whether crumble, grunt, slump, or pie, cut into as many pieces as possible to share. The winner splits the door's take with Omnivore, and since the small shop tends to fill up for these food fights, that's definitely not a bad deal.

Stone Fruit Contest

When: Sat., July 10, 4-5 p.m.

Where: Omnivore Books, 3885a Cesar Chavez (at Church), 282-4712

Cost: $5 for tasters, free to competitors

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Lamb Takedown at Thirsty Bear Won't Be for the Squeamish

Posted By on Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 3:26 PM

rsz_sfltdbig.jpg
Mutant sheep slaughter residents of a small farm in the 2007 New Zealand-made horror-comedy Black Sheep, wherein the ovine countenance conjures up neither symbols associated with Christian iconography, nor the innocence and cuddly cuteness of Mary's tiny, snow-fleeced charge or Lambchop, the idiotic puppet. Instead, small dead eyes, a long nose, and a fuzzy shock of wool strike terror into the hearts of men.

For diners who get a little tentative when it comes to tucking into lamb, Black Sheep might be required viewing ― at least prior to attending the Lamb Takedown happening next month at Thirsty Bear.

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South American Street Food: A Directory

Posted By on Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 3:01 PM

El Porteño's Joseph Ahearne at one of the SF Underground Markets. - SUSIEFOODIE/FLICKR
  • SusieFoodie/Flickr
  • El Porteño's Joseph Ahearne at one of the SF Underground Markets.
The Venezuelan arepas at Mr Pollo and Pica Pica Maize Kitchen that I wrote about in this week's review are part of a larger wave of South American street food ― Argentinian trucks, Chilean empanada shops, Brazilian sandwich stands. Some have been around for years; many are new, particularly the empanada makers. Here are the South American street-food stores and trucks we know about:

Unspecified

Mas Empanadas (215-1995;

based in San Rafael but sold in Marin County farmers markets and stores

around San Francisco). Savory meat and vegetarian empanadas, as well as

dessert ones.


Argentinian

Empanadas de Mi Pueblo (a website, www.ebempanadas.com, doesn't seem to be working). All SFoodie knows about this new Berkeley empanada maker is that it has a Facebook page.

El Porteño Empanadas (permanent stalls at 331 Cortland and the Ferry Building; also appears at numerous farmers markets). Serves savory and sweet empanadas with flaky crusts.

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John Campbell's Unveils Retail Bakery in Potrero

Posted By on Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 2:22 PM

JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
Who says nothing's open on holidays? Last Sunday ― the Fourth of July ― the Potrero outpost of John Campbell's Irish Bakery opened its retail space in the former site of Pinkie's Bakery/Bento 415/4505 Meats. Campbell's had already been using the space for production baking. This is the bakery's third retail shop; its older siblings are in Cow Hollow and the Outer Richmond.

John Campbell's Irish Bakery 300 De Haro (at 16th St.), Stes. 342/340, 621-2212; open Mon.-Sat., 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun. 7 a.m.-8 p.m.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

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On the Mission's Arepa Trail

Posted By on Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 12:24 PM

Mr. Pollo's Manny Torres Gimenez breaks it down for diners. - ED U./YELP
  • Ed U./Yelp
  • Mr. Pollo's Manny Torres Gimenez breaks it down for diners.
Maybe S.F. sandwich culture is advanced enough to allow for variations like the arepa, South American specimens that aren't exactly sandwiches. In today's "Eat" column in SF Weekly, food critic Jonathan Kauffman crafts a Mission twofer juxtaposing Mr. Pollo with Pica Pica Maize Kitchen.

Like some World Cup official, Kauffman weighs Colombian against Venezuelan in a search for the essence of arepa-ness. Kauffman: "A thick, soft corn cake, split like an English muffin and filled with almost anything, including cheese and vegetables, the arepa is the platypus of handheld foods ― belonging to both the sandwich and the tortilla-pupusa classes." What's more, Mr. Pollo's Manny Torres Gimenez, who's labored in the zona gastronomica of Coi, A16, and Quince, has aspirations beyond the humble sandwich cognate. Get a taste of Manny's four-course tasting menu ― and get a healthy whiff of the vibrant Chipotle vibe at Pica Pica ― at SFWeekly.com.

Oh, and in today's "Eat" Extra, Jonathan Kauffman rounds up the Bay Area's growing circle of South American food vendors.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Follow Jonathan Kauffman at @JonKauffman.

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The Corner's Unleashing a Late-Night Happy Hour

Posted By on Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 11:09 AM

Yo, broke Mission bastards: Tight jeans are optional. - THE CORNER
  • The Corner
  • Yo, broke Mission bastards: Tight jeans are optional.
There's something irresistible about the idea of the late-night industry happy hour, with its promise of line cooks, the sweat of the sauté station dried onto them, getting liquored up on Fernet.

Starting tomorrow, you might be able to catch a whiff of that magic at The Corner, where chef-owner Alex Jackson is inaugurating a nighttime happy hour. "While definitely geared for the restaurant industry crowd, I suspect it will appeal to any Missionite that wants to eat something other than a super burrito at 1:30 a.m.," Jackson writes by e-mail. The eats menu sprawls from roasted cauliflower with fregola, black-eyed peas and good balsamic (Jackson's phrase) to beef cheek poutine with farmhouse cheddar. All dishes weigh in at $6.50.

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An Open Letter to All Restaurants Advertising Their 'Secret' Menus

Posted By on Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 9:58 AM

Oversharing.
  • Oversharing.
Dear Buzz Seekers:

If you want your "secret" menus and "off-menu" dishes to be things your regulars boast about to their friends, stop talking them up to food writers and critics. Or else add the ^#$#%ing dishes to the regular menu.

Thank you. 

Sincerely, 

SFoodie Writers for Truth in Advertising

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Sweet Revolution Plus Kika's Treats Equals Sweet Treaty

Posted By on Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 9:00 AM

Bet we can't eat just one. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • Bet we can't eat just one.
San Francisco indie confectioners Sweet Revolution and Kika's Treats, who share kitchen space, have just unveiled their first collaboration. If Sweet Treaty isn't a new invention, we don't know of anything like it locally. It's a puffed corn cake dipped in dark chocolate and sprinkled with salt. Or we should probably say was, because ours, which we found at Other Avenues (3930 Judah at 44th Ave.), is now just a memory that we're fiending to refuel.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie

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