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Monday, June 28, 2010

Where Can I Find Andouillette?

Posted By on Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 4:11 PM

Andouillette from Le Violon d'Ingres, Paris. - KPHUA/FLICKR
  • kphua/Flickr
  • Andouillette from Le Violon d'Ingres, Paris.

Today's question is from Gerard K., and it was a bit of a stinker:

A French friend who has been attending graduate school in Ann Arbor for

a couple of years will be in San Francisco for the summer ― and he's

desperately hoping to find a Bay Area restaurant that serves a dish he

can't find in Michigan: genuine andouillette. Any suggestions?

Readers are correct if they realize andouillette (awn-dwee-yet) is related to

Cajun andouille (an-DOO-ee). But the French version ― a great

specialty of Lyon and Troyes ― is stuffed with intestines. As you may imagine, its earthy aroma is about as

appetizing to most Americans as ripe Livarot cheese or pheasant hung

until its feathers have dropped out. 

Gerard K., after calling around (and around and around) to French bistros and some of the city's higher-end butcher shops, the only place I could find that serves andouillette is Cafe Bastille (22 Belden Alley, 986-5673). The person I spoke to on the phone says that the bistro makes the sausage itself, and serves the andouillette grilled with caramelized onions and fries. (I'd forgotten that Cafe Bastille also serves boudin noir, or blood sausage ― years ago, when I would get misty-eyed for my time in Belgium, I used to stop in for lunch.)

The Bay Area is also home to two of the country's best-known producers of French charcuterie, both of whom make andouillette. Sadly, Marcel et Henri is on hiatus after a May 16 fire destroyed a huge chunk of its South San Francisco plant. The Hayward-based producer Fabrique Délices confirmed that its andouillettes are made in the Lyonnais style, with ground pork intestine (instead of the more laborious Troyes style, stuffed with intestine strips). Your friend can order the sausage from the producer's website ― to ship to Ann Arbor, no less. I've also got a call in to Fabrique Délices' San Francisco distributor to find out whether any local stores sell the sausages; I will update this post when I hear back from him.

Got a question for the critic? E-mail
Or follow me on Twitter: @JonKauffman.

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