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Monday, June 28, 2010

Rice Soup at Lers Ros

Posted By on Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 7:30 AM

Rice soup with pickled mustard green salad ($4.50).
  • Rice soup with pickled mustard green salad ($4.50).
Monday, June 28, 2010

Some days you want pancakes for lunch. Some days you crave an omelet. Some days, you want khao tom (rice soup) with pickled mustard greens, heavy on the lime, chiles, garlic, and fish sauce. Near the back of the multipage menu at Lers Ros is a section for Thai breakfast ― rice soups with small dishes on the side such as salted egg salad, fried fish, or crispy-skin pork with Chinese broccoli. All are served in two sizes: small (less than $5) or large ($7-$8).

We found ourselves near Lers Ros last week and were pulled in by

its gravitational force ― or perhaps it was the scent of toasted chiles

― but once we sat down we realized it was too early in the day for pork

belly. Giving in to months'-long curiosity, we finally ordered the rice

soup with pickled mustard greens. The soup was congee at its sparest,

just rice cooked soft in water, bland and still a little grainy. The

salad, by contrast, was Thai food at its sharpest, all crunch and

pucker and burn. We combined the two, then alternated bites, then

combined the two again. It was just the meal we had hoped for, light

but substantial enough to keep us going until dinner.

Lers Ros Thai 730 Larkin

(at Ellis), 931-6917.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie. Follow me at @JonKauffman.

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