Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Thursday, June 24, 2010

S.F. Sandwich Culture is Cool, But New York's No. 7 Sub Goes Beyond

Posted By on Thu, Jun 24, 2010 at 12:32 PM

Braised lamb sandwich at No. 7 Sub in Manhattan. - JASONLAM/FLICKR
  • jasonlam/Flickr
  • Braised lamb sandwich at No. 7 Sub in Manhattan.
San Franciscans tiring (somehow) of porchetta sandwiches at Il Cane Rosso and drippy subs at the possibly doomed Ike's might want to catch a plane east. A not-so-old Brooklyn-based college friend of ours is gleefully scrambling the sandwich script, reveling in off-the-wall ingredient combinations guaranteed to make your brain and 'buds flip ― and your picky great-aunt squirm.

A New York Times review dubbed Tyler Kord, chef-owner of No. 7 in Fort Greene, Brooklyn, and now of No. 7 Sub in the Ace Hotel in Manhattan's Flatiron District, the "Wonka of submarine sandwiches," and the evidence, as laid out, lives up to the billing.

click to enlarge 4463304749_065b28dc8d_m.jpg
From the Times:
Mr. Kord makes a roast beef hero that tastes of blueberries. He stuffs hoagies with ceviche, and also broccoli. And he piles on candied wasabi, papadams, whole fried lemon slices and doenjang, a Korean fermented soybean paste.... [T]hat roast beef sub, ... the meat itself is juicy. Then you get a hit of umami from the sour-salty-sweet doenjang. There's also smoked gouda with a tinge of musk. And finally, pickled blueberries that taste as if the chef had gone foraging that morning. They're a brilliant update of cornichons.... The descriptions read like Zen koans: "Peanut butter, mint jelly, romaine, papadam." That's the braised lamb. The mint jelly makes sense: it's dinner with your grandmother at the Carlyle. Another bite, and you detect the peanut butter ― jelly's eternal mate, of course, and a witty detour to the playground. But what's that crackle? Papadams? Suddenly we're in Mughal India.

Offerings vary day-to-day and cost $9 apiece. Take our order, please.

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

About The Author

Andrew Simmons


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook


  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"