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Tuesday, June 22, 2010

S.F. Rising: Epi from Thorough Bread and Pastry

Posted By on Tue, Jun 22, 2010 at 4:40 PM


S.F. Rising is a weekly

survey of bread in San Francisco ― the baked and the fried, the

artisan and the novelty.


Source: Thorough Bread and Pastry, 248 Church (at Market), 558-0690 .
Price: $1.25

Toast-appropriateness: 0/10.

Thorough Bread, the bakery run by the San Francisco Baking Institute,

has become a welcome part of the new Castro, the gourmet-ification of a neighborhood where, all too often, the food has been the last thing neighborhood visitors wanted to put in their mouths. While cooking schools are often dicey places to eat, the instructors here manage to keep quality high, while tuition keeps bread and pastry prices low.

Thorough Bread's epi, named after a sheaf of wheat, is one of those classic breads that belong in a school run by a baker trained in France ― and also make you wonder why they don't appear at more dinner parties. Half dinner roll, half baguette, the epi is all crust: glossy and golden on the top, blistered where it lay on the pan. Biting in to the bread produces a noise like a car radio passing through an electrical storm; warming the epi back up in the oven intensifies the effect ― a spatter of gunfire, a blizzard of crumbs.

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Follow me at @JonKauffman.

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Jonathan Kauffman


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