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Wednesday, June 9, 2010

What to Have for Lunch: 'Open' Ravioli from Fleur de Sel

Posted By on Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 7:30 AM

click to enlarge Sunchoke open ravioli with broccolini and bacon ($8.15). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Sunchoke open ravioli with broccolini and bacon ($8.15).
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

click to enlarge JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
Takeaway rules at this month-old FiDi deli, done up with granite countertops and a fresh coat of French. Former Chapeau! chef Stephane Gregoire shuns the Downtown lunch-spot turkey sandwich in favor of stuff like salmon ceviche and beef filet cooked sous vide ― staff can nuke the hot dishes for you to eat on site, or you can slink back to the office kitchenette and do the button-pushing yourself. Gregoire's cocked-pinkie cuisine might not appeal every day, but when you have the urge, a dish like sunchoke "open" ravioli can offer up big charm. A double layer of pasta sheets, the edges left unsealed (open: get it?), reveals a squishy filling of sunchoke purée haunted with the ripe-mushroom aura of truffle oil, the top scattered with broccolini sprigs and bacon pieces. According to the menu, the latter was supposed to be pancetta, but we liked the bacon anyway. It reminded us of the turkey club we weren't having.

Fleur de Sel 308 Kearny (at Bush), 956-5005.

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

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