Get SF Weekly Newsletters

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Chairman Bao Throwdown Is Not Happening at Eat Real ― If It Happens At All

Posted By on Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 11:06 AM

In this corner: Baohaus's Chairman Bao. - EATING IN TRANSLATION/FLICKR
Could the whole Chairman Bao truck/Baohaus NYC story get much murkier? Last week Eater SF misconstrued our report on the bao-down between Baohaus's Eddie Huang and S.F.'s own Mobi Munch-managed Chairman Bao would go down at the 2010 Eat Real festival, Aug. 27-29 in Oakland. Nope. Hugh Schick, who's offered to host Huang on his yet-to-launch bustaurant Le Truc, said any throwdown would most likely happen soon after Eat Real, and in San Francisco, for sure.

In the opposite corner (possibly): Chairman Bao's duck and mango bun. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • In the opposite corner (possibly): Chairman Bao's duck and mango bun.
What's not sure is whether Chairman Bao is even on board. Ray Villaman of Mobi Munch didn't respond to our query about whether, from his perspective, it was on. So at the very least, Huang might end up on board Le Truc rolling out his signature Chairman Bao, Taiwanese buns filled with soy-and-Pepsi-Wild-Cherry-braised pork belly.

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

  • Pin It

Liminal Society Seeks to Capture the Moment Between Seasons

Posted By on Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 9:43 AM

What, exactly, will June 19 taste like? The Liminal Society aims to find out. - LIMINAL SOCIETY
  • Liminal Society
  • What, exactly, will June 19 taste like? The Liminal Society aims to find out.
In The BFG, our second-favorite Roald Dahl book, the plucky little protagonist Sophie, unable to sleep during the predawn "witching hour," spies a stooped bald giant blowing dreams through the windows of houses along her street. This "special moment of the night" when buildings look "bent and crooked, like houses in a fairy tale" and everything is "pale and ghostly and milky-white" is a time of transition, just before moonlit darkness gives way to the first flickers of dawn. It is a space between two movements, in a sense, liminal in that it exists between two defined states. The witching hour is neither here nor there, and when you're awake then (and not falling down the stairs at some stupid party), the silence and absence of human motion and voices encourages the sensing of invisible spirits.

We thought of this when we read about the young Liminal Society's June 19 dinner party. Plenty of special serial dinners celebrate the seasons; most restaurants self-consciously do the same, kind of to the point where half the menus in town look strikingly similar at any given time of year, changing practically in unison each month. Chef Nicole LoBue's Liminal Society feasts focus tighter in on the spaces between the seasons we think we know ― we like to think of them as joints linking one section of the year to the next. LoBue and her comrades came up with the concept last year as summer turned to fall. In searching out a way to express the shifts in seasons, they've found a satisfying conceit around which to construct thoughtful, layered food parties.

Continue reading »

  • Pin It

Tags: , ,

What to Have for Lunch: 'Open' Ravioli from Fleur de Sel

Posted By on Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 7:30 AM

Sunchoke open ravioli with broccolini and bacon ($8.15). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Sunchoke open ravioli with broccolini and bacon ($8.15).
Wednesday, June 9, 2010

JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
Takeaway rules at this month-old FiDi deli, done up with granite countertops and a fresh coat of French. Former Chapeau! chef Stephane Gregoire shuns the Downtown lunch-spot turkey sandwich in favor of stuff like salmon ceviche and beef filet cooked sous vide ― staff can nuke the hot dishes for you to eat on site, or you can slink back to the office kitchenette and do the button-pushing yourself. Gregoire's cocked-pinkie cuisine might not appeal every day, but when you have the urge, a dish like sunchoke "open" ravioli can offer up big charm. A double layer of pasta sheets, the edges left unsealed (open: get it?), reveals a squishy filling of sunchoke purée haunted with the ripe-mushroom aura of truffle oil, the top scattered with broccolini sprigs and bacon pieces. According to the menu, the latter was supposed to be pancetta, but we liked the bacon anyway. It reminded us of the turkey club we weren't having.

Fleur de Sel 308 Kearny (at Bush), 956-5005.

Follow us on Twitter: @SFoodie. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

  • Pin It

Tags: , , ,

Popular Stories

  1. Most Popular Stories
  2. Stories You Missed

Like us on Facebook

Slideshows

  • clipping at Brava Theater Sept. 11
    Sub Pop recording artists 'clipping.' brought their brand of noise-driven experimental hip hop to the closing night of 2016's San Francisco Electronic Music Fest this past Sunday. The packed Brava Theater hosted an initially seated crowd that ended the night jumping and dancing against the front of the stage. The trio performed a set focused on their recently released Sci-Fi Horror concept album, 'Splendor & Misery', then delved into their dancier and more aggressive back catalogue, and recent single 'Wriggle'. Opening performances included local experimental electronic duo 'Tujurikkuja' and computer music artist 'Madalyn Merkey.'"