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Wednesday, May 26, 2010

What to Have for Lunch: Oxtail Canneloni at Radius Café

Posted By on Wed, May 26, 2010 at 7:24 AM

click to enlarge Oxail canneloni ($9). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Oxail canneloni ($9).
Wednesday, May 26, 2010

click to enlarge Pressed pork belly on green onion slab ($14). - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Pressed pork belly on green onion slab ($14).
Radius feels either like a restaurant waiting space whose dining room has abandoned it, or the coolest undiscovered café in town. The SOMA eatery's casual half opened in early March; optimistic predictions suggested the dining room would open by the end of the month, but, well, here we are facing down Memorial Day. Never mind. Chef Kelly Hughett's all-day café menu has the polish of dishes you'd expect to see against the backdrop of a tablecloth, even though it weights heavily sandwich-y. Yesterday's special: Cohiba-size cannelloni, filled with lush fragments of oxtail, sprinkled with Parmesan and baked crisp as the chimichangas at Chevys. Chances are it won't be on today's menu, but the pressed pork belly sandwich with a jammy mass of cooked-down sweet peppers would be fine consolation.

Radius Café 1123 Folsom (at Langton), 525-3676.

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