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Wednesday, May 19, 2010

SFoodie's 92, Part 3: Our Favorite Things to Eat and Drink in S.F.

Posted By on Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:28 AM

Page 6 of 31

Limón cebiche: It's the tiger's milk that makes it so raawr.
  • Limón cebiche: It's the tiger's milk that makes it so raawr.
Number 67: Limón Cebiche from Limón

Spanish-trained Peruvian chef Emmauel Piqueras indulges flights of fancy at Limón ― like the pargo rojo, a whole fish deep-fried into a curl to hold crispy sections of its own flesh. But it's Piqueras's mixed cebiche plate says just as much about his technique. He dispenses with the elements of the classic platter that befuddle North Americans the most ― the fried corn, the corn cob ― and keeps the essentials: silky rings of squid; folds of whitefish fillet, just beginning to firm up; sweet raw prawns; and the tangle of shaved red onions on top. The cebiche marinates for a spell in Limón's finely balanced "leche de tigre" ― lime juice deepened with garlic and a little cumin, perfumed with cilantro, and spiked with enough aji chile to buzz on the tongue. When the tiger's milk proves too piquant, there's respite at the edges of the plate: fat, shiny kernels of field corn and a creamy half-moon of sweet potato.

Limón Restaurant 524 Valencia (at 16th St.), 252-0918
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