Page 4 of 31
Number 65: Brioche Bread Pudding from Tartine Bakery What happened to the junkets and egg custards, the flummeries and semolina puddings of earlier generations? Vanished beneath vast landfills of synthetic factory pudding cups. And though it's no simple revival of those bucolic desserts, Tartine owner Elisabeth Prueitt's homely brioche pudding has all the concentrated milkiness, the squidgy texture, and delicately sweet-sulfur egginess of its old fashioned antecedents. With an enormous spoonful of fruit compote on top (pears are pictured above), it shades Northern Cali: fall-leaf colors and a distilled fruitiness that precisely set off the pudding's milky opalescence. Tartine Bakery 600 Guerrero (at 18th St.), 487-2600
