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Wednesday, May 19, 2010

SFoodie's 92, Part 3: Our Favorite Things to Eat and Drink in S.F.

Posted By on Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:28 AM

Page 2 of 31

Hipsters beware. - J. BIRDSALL
  • J. Birdsall
  • Hipsters beware.
Number 63: Ribs from Bruno's At this '90s neo-swinger lounge on Mission, chefs Katharine Zacher and Ryan Ostler serve up mostly Southern heartland eats so vivid they seem startlingly at odds with the room. So maybe hipsters don't gladly manhandle bones, and suffer their chins to get all shiny with pork residue. Except that, after one taste of Ostler's smoked ribs, and chances are they won't care. Smoked over hickory and applewood, the West Texas-style ribs show off a finely pebbled crust as dark as grade C maple syrup, with an aroma every bit as woody-sweet. The flesh is plush and stringy, and has enough flavor all on its own to make the accompanying barbecue sauce (not spicy, but subtly smoky) completely optional. Which is good news for things like cardigan sleeves, the potentially gunky hipster casualties of uninhibited eating ― something Zacher and Ostler have a way of inspiring. Bruno's 2389 Mission (at 20th St.), 643-5200
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