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Thursday, May 13, 2010

American Cupcake Brings Together Cupcakes and Wine ― at Last

Posted By on Thu, May 13, 2010 at 5:42 PM

The Fun House: Bubblegum, cotton candy, and Pixie Stix mini cupcakes with Pinot Gris, Syrah rosé, and brut rosé. - TAMARA PALMER
  • Tamara Palmer
  • The Fun House: Bubblegum, cotton candy, and Pixie Stix mini cupcakes with Pinot Gris, Syrah rosé, and brut rosé.
Despite the name, Cow Hollow's American Cupcake, an over-the-top white and pink confection which opened May 1, also offers a menu of savory snacks in addition to cupcakes and carnival fare (cotton candy, caramel apples, fried Oreos).

The savory section mainly hones in on bite-sized items such as tater tots with curried ketchup and wasabi aïoli, pulled pork sliders with Jack and Coke barbecue sauce, and truffle Parmesan popcorn. There are eight kinds of peanut butter/almond butter/hazelnut butter sandwiches with companions such as banana, coconut, honey, and apple-smoked bacon, or customers can customize their own combo. Sparkling wine, beer, and "candy cocktails" and flights of mini cupcakes and wine round out the menu.

We tried the Fun House ($16), a plate of cotton candy, bubblegum, and Pixie Stix mini cupcakes paired with glasses of Pinot Gris, Syrah rosé, and brut rosé. We enjoyed how the wine muted the insane sweetness of the pastel-hued frosting, which all tasted like reasonable facsimiles of each flavor. Luckily, the dense crumb of the base vanilla cake isn't too sweet.

It was all pretty silly and indulgent (and therefore an awesomely appropriate addition to Union Street), but we still can't promise we won't do it again.

American Cupcake 1919 Union (at Laguna), 896-4217.

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Tamara Palmer


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