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Thursday, May 6, 2010

Pizza Di Mano Foretells Blurry Late Nights Filled with So-So Slices

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 8:30 AM

Not as molten and blistered ― or as brittle-bottomed ― as other neighborhood 'zas. - ANDREW SIMMONS
  • Andrew Simmons
  • Not as molten and blistered ― or as brittle-bottomed ― as other neighborhood 'zas.
On Monday, Eater popped off about Pizza Di Mano, the new "no-frills pizza place ... just off 24th and Mission near the BART station." With its cheap tables, glass snot-shield protecting the counter's wares, and walls lined with bad drawings of music luminaries like Neil Young, Nico, and Amy Winehouse, Pizza Di Mano doesn't look like much ― pretty standard for a 'za joint, really. We took the liberty of ordering up a brace of slices ― one classic cheese, one veggie ($2.74 and $3.43, respectively) ― to bring home.

Within minutes of darting off our train, zipping up the escalator, and dipping into the store, we were sitting at our kitchen table, a white cardboard pizza box spread out before us.

As Eater suggested, Pizza Di Mano ― the brainchild of a former bartender and lawyer ― has an NYC-meets-Arinell vibe. As far as the wares go, Pizza Di Mano's cheese slice isn't as molten and blistered on top and not quite so brittle on the bottom crust. Like Arinell, it doesn't possess the winsome, free-form charm of a long, skinny misshapen triangle from Serrano's just a few blocks down on 21st. Nonetheless, Pizza Di Mano adds to the neighborhood cornucopia, making pizza for late nights and beer-glazed bellies, slices to fold in half, to slather with globs of ranch dressing and streaks of Srirachi. Eating this slice felt like a glance into our intoxicated future.

Pizza Di Mano 3331 24th St. (at Osage), 550-1452

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