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Thursday, May 6, 2010

Reinventing Jewish Street Food in San Francisco

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 5:30 PM

Kosher brisket brewing from Pearl's Kitchen. - PEARLSKITCH.BLOGSPOT.COM
  • pearlskitch.blogspot.com
  • Kosher brisket brewing from Pearl's Kitchen.
We enjoyed Emily Savage's cover story ("Takin' it to the streets: Jewish vendors add deli favorites to S.F. mobile food scene") of the new issue of J., the Jewish newsweekly of Northern California, if only for the imaginative possibilities of a future Jewish street-food scene channeling old-school traditions in San Francisco. For now, we've got Pearl's Kitchen and Egg Cream Cart, two Jewish-leaning vendors who have yet to be able to sync their busy schedules to sell together, and the San Francisco-based national mobile food website Roaming Hunger, created by fellow member of the tribe Ross Resnick.

PK's Lauren Bowne remembers her grandmother, the namesake of her and husband Jon's business:

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Chronicle Top 100 List Quietly Swells to 101

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 5:27 PM

Marlowe's burger seems to have helped make it a late addition to the 2010 Top 100. Or the first addition to 2011. - JOHN BIRDSALL
  • John Birdsall
  • Marlowe's burger seems to have helped make it a late addition to the 2010 Top 100. Or the first addition to 2011.
Believe us, we know all about the urge to engineer a do-over for something that, weeks after publishing, we've reconsidered. When it comes to last month's Chronicle Top 100, it looks as if restaurant critic Michael Bauer has pulled off a back-door revision ― by addition. Today we noticed an update to the Chron list:
While the next Top 100 won't be published until next April, I want to keep you updated on new, interesting places that will likely make next year's list. These have been recently reviewed. Click on the name to find the review: Marlowe, S.F.

Say what? While it seems that Marlowe is the list's de facto post-facto101st entry, Mr. Bauer's note suggests the restaurant is actually the first new addition to next year's list. Although, either to keep some small remnant of suspense, or as a kind of warning to Marlowe that, tasty burger or not, they haven't exactly been canonized. Not yet.

That leaves us with a question. If, say, Commis put a burger on the menu, could it, too, sneak onto 2011's pre-list?

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Your Tonga Room News Roundup: What Does It All Mean?

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 4:37 PM


It seems odd that the Fairmont wants to close the Tonga Room just as neo-neo-tiki is blowing up in artisan-cocktail circles. (Today, for instance, the New York Times reported on the opening of yet another rum bar.)

Though it has been a while since we've been to a birthday party at the Tonga Room, and a few decades since we ordered anything to eat. But that's not important! We are San Franciscans and we love the Tonga Room! The memory of those drunken tourists groovin' to Gloria Estefan covers on the pirate ship while the thunder roars and we snickered on the sidelines is always in our hearts.

Have we saved it? Is it doomed? Is the decor going to be sold off to the Hanoi Metropol, where other tourists will enjoy it even more? The reports are conflicting. Read through them all and report back:

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Cook to Bang: How to Get Into a Girl's Pants, One Crappy Recipe at a Time

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 4:04 PM

It's like Maxim meets Rachael Ray.
  • It's like Maxim meets Rachael Ray.
Cookbooks written expressly for the purpose of snagging a mate are nothing new, but usually they're targeted toward women and sprinkled with cringe-inducing terms like "bachelor chow." There simply aren't that many cookbooks written for the fratboy crowd. Luckily, a man named Spencer Walker has identified this trucker-hat- and popped-collar-shaped hole in the market, and filled it with a book called Cook to Bang (St. Martin's Griffin, $13.99), scheduled for release on May 11.

"Spencer shows you how to identify the type of girl you want to bang, what to cook for her, and how to smoothly move from the kitchen to the bedroom," reads the breathless press release that landed in our inbox. "For any dude who's tired of dropping good money on dates that only get him a kiss on the cheek, Cook to Bang is a fool-proof guide to 'getting some' on the cheap."

Much like the book's title, the names of Walker's recipes don't truck with subtlety. What girl wouldn't immediately disrobe when served Oral Tator-Splosions or Get Stuffed and Bust-a-Nut Squash? Who among us hasn't been halfway out the door when a guy murmured, "Wait, I've got Diddle That Cous Cous on the stove top"?
 

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Planned Foie Gras Protest Targets Thomas Keller

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 2:52 PM

Foie gras terrine at French Laundry. - ULTERIOR EPICURE/FLICKR
San Francisco Citizen is reporting on plans for a foie gras protest targeting Thomas Keller's restaurant empire this Saturday. A press release from the Animal Protection and Rescue League says its three-pronged fourchette will stab Per Se in New York City at noon, French Laundry in Yountville at 7 p.m., and the Beverly Hills Bouchon at 7:30 p.m. San Diego-based APRL says the Keller protests will be joined by "several" animal protection groups, "due to the company's sale of 'foie gras' ― liver from cruelly force fed ducks. The groups will be displaying graphic banners showing scenes from inside Thomas Keller's supplier, Hudson Valley Foie Gras, and other producers of this barbaric product."

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Saltado de Pollo from Mi Lindo Peru

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 1:58 PM

Chinese-Peruvian-American food that even a Parisian would love. - PHILLIP W./YELP
  • Phillip W./Yelp
  • Chinese-Peruvian-American food that even a Parisian would love.

As a daily windup to the Weekly's Best of S.F. 2010 on May 19, we've teased out 92 of our favorite local dishes that taste like here. All the tasty details after the jump.

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Foodzie Test Kitchen Puts Our Chile Crunch Dependency on Ice

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:58 PM

EZ Gaspacho Granita with Chile Colonial's Chile Crunch. - FOODZIE
  • Foodzie
  • EZ Gaspacho Granita with Chile Colonial's Chile Crunch.
We bumped into Chile Colonial's Chile Crunch at the Fancy Food Show earlier this year, where it was one of the most memorable local products we found. We've barely stopped eating it since. At the show, Chile Colonial proprietor Susie Hojel, who makes her wares at La Cocina, explained that her fiery flavor combinations are motivated by trying to recapture the tastes of her native Mexico City.

We procured a jar of this sizzling arbol chile, crunchy garlic, and onion condiment the next day and proceeded to throw it on just about everything, from eggs and nachos to chow mein and soup. We eventually ended up just eating it straight out of the jar with a spoon, which is actually highly recommended for heat fanatics.

It was just as we'd given up on the need to create a vehicle for this addiction (other than straight freebasing it) that an easy and inspiring Chile Crunch recipe came along.

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Meet the Craigslist of Sustainable Food Jobs

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:46 PM

Get paid, eco-foodies! - SUSTAINABLEFOODJOBS.WORDPRESS.COM
  • sustainablefoodjobs.wordpress.com
  • Get paid, eco-foodies!
Want to parlay your foraging acumen into a gig with benefits? Fixing to get your Master's in Food Studies from NYU and starting to wonder how you're ever going to pay off all those loans? From restaurant jobs and farm work to researcher and analyst positions, and all manner of internships and academic opportunities, Sustainable Food Jobs gathers pertinent postings from around the country and organizes them clearly and effectively. This could be Craigslist for a booming field.

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Scott Howard Standing Firm on May 31 Opening for Brick & Bottle

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:29 PM

The former Izzy's Steakhouse site (picture here) offers terrace views of Mt. Tam.
  • The former Izzy's Steakhouse site (picture here) offers terrace views of Mt. Tam.
"I'm standing in a construction zone, so let me talk to you from someplace quiet," said chef Scott Howard via cell phone. Howard and two business partners are experiencing restaurant birth pangs in Corte Madera for Brick & Bottle, which they plan to launch May 31 in the former Izzy's Steakhouse at 55 Tamal Vista (at Chickasaw), near Book Passage. It'll be lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch, food with a Cal-cuisine seasonal focus, along with cocktails, local beers, and wine. A year ago, Howard was presiding over the launch of Five in Berkeley's Hotel Shattuck (he remains consulting chef there). He made his name ― literally ― on his eponymous restaurant in San Francisco (it shuttered in 2008), and earlier at San Anselmo's Fork.

Howard sounded stoked. "I've got some new toys to play with," he said: a rotisserie and pizza oven, from which will emerge gratins and sides, roasted vegetables, and meat specials like prime rib, pork, and duck. "I haven't worked in a place with a pizza oven for probably 10 years," Howard said.

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Our Blind Tasting of Pale Ales Reveals Wide Disparity

Posted By on Thu, May 6, 2010 at 10:53 AM

The lineup. - BRIAN YAEGER
  • Brian Yaeger
  • The lineup.
For this month's blind beer-tasting, we're not going beyond the pale ― we're going right to it. Made with lightly roasted malts, pale ales originated in England as a mellow alternative to dark mild and porter ales. They might have been invented in Burton-on-Trent, England, in the early 18th century, but in the early '80s, a certain microbrewery on CA-99 in Chico gave us the American pale ale that has made citrus-y Cascade hops the darling of the craft beer industry ever since.

The panel (from left): the author, Erny, Lamoreaux, Del Grande, Fraggle. - BRIAN YAEGER
  • Brian Yaeger
  • The panel (from left): the author, Erny, Lamoreaux, Del Grande, Fraggle.
Besides this blogger, tasting panelists were culled from Oakland, including Fraggle, who hosted at Beer Revolution. The panel included bartender at The Trappist and certified cicerone Nicole Erny, and a pair of brewmasters: Adam Lamoreaux from Linden Street Brewery and Daniel Del Grande from Bison Brewery.

We sampled seven widely available beers shrouded in paper bags; each was scored on a 1 to 10 scale and given a sum total. Once tallied, we saw the most disparity out of the four blind tastings we've conducted so far. That shouldn't be surprising for a style that's deemed middle-of-the-road. Behold the ranking, from best to worst (after the jump):

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